Mopar Muscle Association UK

Cheers Blue. Yes, I remember discussing them at Pod, so picked one up from Valley Gas on my travels, not fitted yet though. I’ll work that into the plan.

filter after mechanical pump only on mine.... and the arrow on it points to the carb...

mechaical pump is a sucker and a pusher restrict its suck-ability and it has nothing to push.....
the push however is driven mechanically from the motor so puts up with a filter, the suck is driven by spring tension in the pump, you can over come that spring tension with too small a line or a restrictive filter or a blocked up tank sock. (its all about low pressure flow on the input)

as with all things mechancial its a compromise and a balance that was tuned by somone who knew their stuff.....

the valves in the mechanical pump are just big holes with rubber flaps over, a none return on the inlet side, and one on the outlet side, you'd need a lump of tank crud the size of a bumble bee to get stuck.
short of cracked split rubber bits nout much to ware or go wrong.

in most cases andelecrtic pump is realy just a gravity fed pusher
(although the carter rotary vane things suck and push, they can be sited higher than the outlet)
Having a big free flowing filter, (a mesh for chunky bits) infront of them to avoid pump ware, and a fine filter on the high pressure side to protect carb or injection makes sense they are basically cycling the content of your tank up the front and back again, churning all the in-tank fuel about more than standard and getting it hot.. hot fuel cleans crud off the floor of your tank better than cold....

mine as standard came with a hemi 6 pump that had the valves and springs from a 318 340 pump.. for higher flow and pressure.
can't get them anymore so its a high out put slant 6 pump...now feeding 3 carbs not 1. the only time i ran out of fuel mid track was when i ran a holley regulator.

think of a regulator as a ballon the fuel flows into, and out of, encased in a sealed box, with your chosen fuel presure applied to the outside of the balloon it fills up to smooth the peaks its empties to maintian pressure in the troughs, just a bit crap really unless a return line is used to bleed off excess fuel, once the balloon is abolutley full and at choesn pressure. Only then can they work properly. its valves and springs not a balloon but you get the gist.

if you are not hammering it foot to the floor for 13-16 seconds at a time with 2 more carbs added standard pump with no regulator should be fine.

mine is unbranded it was branded when it was in its box, i think it was delco, but has nothing on it to physically identify it now it is installed

Dave

ah more reponses

i should write quicker....

I must be getting better at this, I actually followed that one.

Cheers Dave, that’s a good explanation and very useful.

I think I know what I need to do now, just need to price up and gauge how much time I need to put aside for the job. Only other thing I need to figure out is if I have the correct pump in the stash and if it needs anything else or just remove the blanking cover and bolt in.

Whilst I’m here… any recommendations for rocker cover gaskets? I read all sorts of opinions and horror stories. I have Mopar Performance covers, in case that makes a blind bit of difference.

Still looking for recommendations on the gaskets, but in the meantime I noticed another hole I’m unsure of… I say noticed, as in narrowly avoided a bolt I dropped falling into it and never noticed it before!

Is there meant to be an exposed hole here on top of the trans?!

... and relax... normal.

Van / Motorhone Trans... wait for the oracle to confirm....

Yes, that's correct. Vans & 'homes had the timing marks on the convertor visible through that hole due to less than Bananarama! all visibility under the bonnet. They have a "doghouse" over the engine which you remove for engine access inside the vehicle. Bracket racers in the States also cut a hole like that in the top of the bellhousing, they run a hosepipe in there to cool down the torque converter between rounds. The stuff you learn here...

Best gaskets I have used on a cast cover are the blue Moroso ones. No sealer needed and infinitely reusable, not cheap but you won't ever need another pair..
https://www.moroso.com/perm-align-valve ... sket93050/

Well, every day’s an education!

Seems like an odd idea to have a hole there that can collect fluid. Guessing it drains somewhere? Suppose I’ve not noticed it before because I wasn’t watching a bolt bounce off the lip of it before.

Cheers for the gasket advise, need to replace mine, so may as well do it right.

The bottom of the bell housing is open so anything going in the top will fall out the bottom...

Must concentrate more and not post while on Teams meetings…

RE fuel sender, getting confused as to what I need. Does this look right?

Shopping list so far :

3/8 sender
3/8 front to rear fuel line - steel seems to be about all I need? Any need to go stainless for twice the price?

Er… think that’s about it? All the front end stuff seems easy enough to source from the UK, unless I’m missing anything desperate?

If that’s for an E body then yes it’s correct. Just get a roll of cupro nickel off eBay and make your own fuel line, steel or stainless needs a serious tool to bend or flare, you can work cupro with cheap tools.

Unless you are doing a resto, there’s no need to go around the houses with a million bends like the stock fuel line does. Bends restrict flow, the tighter the bend the more restrictive it is so as straight as poss and keep the 90degree bends to a minimum. I’ll post a pic of how I run them later.

Ok great, cheers Blue.

I was going to order the standard fit as it’s only 50 quid ish, so thought it would be plug and play, but be very interested to see how you have done this.