Mopar Muscle Association UK

Well it's all back together and running properly. It is far from alright though. Basically the cam is shot. Some lifters on the opposite bank to the 'problem' one are totally knackered and on the worse one, the lobe looks exactly like Mick's one in the picture earlier in this thread.

I think the cam was always on the way out because I've not done the mileage to ruin it. It also explains the tappety noise I used to hear when I first drove it. It also explains why it drove okay but not ever 100%.

Another silly thing is the pratty chrome dip-stick....you cant see the level when it's fresh oil

So after all this, the thread stays true to it's title...basically, I need a new cam!

Can you swap the cam with the motor in? It looks to me like you'd remove the rad, pump , timing cover and some of the front panel and slide it out the front.....correct?

At least it drives (badly) now

Can you swap the cam with the motor in? It looks to me like you'd remove the rad, pump , timing cover and some of the front panel and slide it out the front.....correct?

Correct. Plus the damper. Fit new timing gear as well while yer down there.

I have a good second hand cam & lifters in order that I pulled out of the 400 that was in the Sox (for 1 meeting ). Ran 12.9 so cannot be too bad.

spec unknown but I think it is a purple whatist - best guess is a 484, no more.

I do ASSUME you are talking B or R/B here???

Judging by the use of a valley pan I would say so!

What about cam timing.....With Mini's you'd get more out of yr performance cam by using a vernier pulley but do people bother with these motors? for road driving?

Case in point- I have a Beemer 635csi to which I've fitted a 286*Schrick cam and it's pretty perfect with the factory timing marks ....

???

Did not read the whole thread - I graze and move on...........

So it was a collaped lifter then! You should always degree a cam in against the specs on the cam card to make sure it is ground correctly and also spot if your brand new cheap timing gears are a piece of crap (come across 3 bad sets so far). If you are buying a quality cam like a Racer Brown and a Rollmaster timing set you can just line up the dots and be pretty sure it'll be right enough. if you want to replace some of those damaged rockers I have plenty here, and enough good pushrods if any of yours are damaged or bent.

Good result all round. Next thread, breaking the cam in properly!!

One or two people have 'just run in' or new s/h cam's going so I think I'll be up 'n running soon . It's nice to actually find something glaringly obvious in a situation like this, y'know.....nothing worse than if I was to find the cam was perfect and so pointing to a damaged/broken piston or knackered mains. At least with a good cam in there I've narrowed down any other problems.......hmmmmm, crank rods and pistons....