Mopar Muscle Association UK

Can't be arsed Dunc , gonna stick it in D & off i go , took the Hurst out when i built it too stock.

Not bothered now , may pick a couple of tenths up on the motor (N/A) , now i've got some compression back , whatever it runs it runs , really don't give a sh$$t , prob the way i feel @ the mo.

Well done Adam looks great.
Drop the mean greenie of tomorrow so you can get more practice.

Adam68 wrote:Can't be arsed Dunc , gonna stick it in D & off i go , took the Hurst out when i built it too stock.

Not bothered now , may pick a couple of tenths up on the motor (N/A) , now I've got some compression back , whatever it runs it runs , really don't give a sh$$t , prob the way i feel @ the mo.

Adam chin up mate....every bodies fed up at the mo...time of year,crap weather ,no money,come the spring things will look a lot better....

Looking4ward to seeing the Pit in action.
Rich.

Thanks Rich , always an inspiration.

OK Adam, how much do you need.

I am reading this thread with interest as it is the next job for me to do on my Challenger, prior to axle removal.
Couple of questions: -
1) What is the best way to support the car, i.e. axle stands under the chassis and axle stands under the front crossmember - no weight on the wheels/suspension, or axle stands under the axle only, or weight of car fully on the wheels?
2) Are the connectors normally located parallel to the sills (using the rear chassis as the start point) or located at the front where the front chassis leg joins the crossmember, making them slightly angled out, rear to front?

Good job Adam, and, er, sorry for slightly stealing your thread!

Cheers!

Phil.

Rear axle on stands, front wheels on ramps if you can. I normally fit them parallel with the sills.

What Blue said.

Since fitting the frame cons the Pit has a mind of it's own , get stuck in the camber of the road & it don't wanna come out.

That's cos your driving with a stiffy now mate

Dont think Its anything to do with fram connectors Adam as no probs with mine.
Might be that the steering box you fitted has the wrong arm or wrong box?

could be castor angle. a massive ammount and rock hard tyres makes it tram rail along the white lines or the two tracks where the lorries have subsided the carriadge way

anyway a stiffer chassis will show up any inadaquacies elsewhere..

bendy car and sloppy steering box work toghether and you don't notice you just get used to it

solid car and sloppy steering box you will notice until the novelty wears off.

i had the UCA mounts and UCA on mine welded gusseted with little triangular bits (they were cracked) and I bolted through the inner wing into the top of the UCA mount tower

made huge difference to the feel of the car in a corner

and really highlighted the fact that i spent most of my time correcting my wandering car on the motorway couldn't even light a fag without corrective knee steering.

mines a manual so i adjusted the bearing pre load 1 tap with a small hammer and re adjusted the sector shaft mesh with the ball nut so i got just a tad stiff in the middle

filled the box with sae90 oil and it all fell out so filled it with grease instead

all ok now

guess yours will be power though.....i know knothing about them but i reckon the princepal will be the same. i.e a bit of adjustment might see you right

Dave

Dave999 wrote: bendy car and sloppy steering box work together and you don't notice you just get used to it Dave

I didn't realise you had experience of the indefatigable Austin Seven Dave!

Top reply as usual, good info in there too Uncle Dave...my sister used to have her gussets welded, I believe.

Philth , love your signature. , only just read it.