Mopar Muscle Association UK

that crank trigger stuff i posted up is able to run two maps and swap them reasonably seemlessly on the fly mid run etc.

i.e road map until gas kick in then gas map. its got this option switch and about 5 other outputs for anything you want to switch on or off based on RPM trigger. and they are working on a proper soft rev limiter

you can run map sensor or TPS (not both)
TPS for 1 barrel per runner applications (i.e webers dellortos etc) and situations with no stable vaccum signal.

if you have issues with vaccum signal and vaccum accumulator/smoother off an alfa 3.3 TI boxer engine works well its just a damped can with a diaphragm in it

you won't get multispark 0 -3000
but it is wasted spark
so you have 4 coils essentially with 2 towers each both of which spark at the same time.

i.e it would never be possible to fire off the wrong cylinder as the wasted spark pairing doesn't allow it.
spark is deliverd purely on RPM and load.

if you wanted to you could parralel up 4 pairs of your current coils and build your own superb coil pack rather than relying on a ford built taxi's coil pack (crown victoria)

the guy that designed it runs it on his circuit track Toyota MR2 i.e he has probably invested a fair ammount in his engine. (i recon fair being quite a lot less than you but....any loss hurts the pocket)

if you wanted to try it its approx 300 quid investment

if it works keep or sling and invest in a High end one

Gavin (Mr Norm) i think knew of or knew the group through his work that designed the EDIS ignition module coils and triggers that is core to this system.

he may put your mind at rest regarding the soundness of the design done by ford on those components which may help when using a hotch potch of EDIS Bits on an expensive engine.

the best bit is you can take the car to a circuit
plug in ya laptop and drive round and round with bob or alan tuning it for ya...can all be done on the fly.

have only ever had mine running on the bench....i'm a lazy sod so its been a slow project so i can't back up anything that ive said with my own life experience.

have a V8 EDIS module New in box and My ECU + trigger wheel if you want to try.

If you keep em i'll want em replaced.

Dave

No purge, never fitted the valve in the end....thanks anyway Bob
Car just hated that much retard, ran a 12.7 on the motor alone with ...... believe this, 43 degrees advance @ 3K and it was its happiest ever plugs looked very good. NO GAS obviously.
Hopefully try again at the HRD's

Dunc, purging into the motor was the idea, as i had no purge valve and just blipping the nos at just over idle when staging......very dodgey I know .....I never did it

AllKiller wrote:No purge, never fitted the valve in the end....thanks anyway Bob
Car just hated that much retard, ran a 12.7 on the motor alone with ...... believe this, 43 degrees advance @ 3K and it was its happiest ever plugs looked very good. NO GAS obviously.
Hopefully try again at the HRD's

Dunc, purging into the motor was the idea, as i had no purge valve and just blipping the nos at just over idle when staging......very dodgey I know .....I never did it

reason i ask is this AMX has nos but no purge someone mentioned at the nats he must purge it in to the mtr dont like the idea off that

There's a lot of gas and not much fuel for a brief second or so...cant be good...makes the motor race....potential for big bang and damage i think

They use a 'bang button' to purge into the motor , reason being to cool the intake , also purges the nitrous/fuel lines , gotta be done above 4000 rpm , they usually hit the bang button around 6000 rpm

Don't like the idea of not purging the nitrous , one reason being the bottle pressure could be above 1060psi , which would be a gas @ that pressure & not a liquid , all that fuel sittin behind the rings , also bore washing the cylinders is not a good idea , plus the fact yer 60fts would be Bananarama! , with a purge solinoid you can see if you have a good plume before you take a run , this would be a prime candidate for a nitrous backfire , all that fuel puddling in the intake.

Steve , maybe you're cam is on the large size for the motor , bleeding off too much dynamic compression , something ain't right running 40* odd of spark lead , have you thought about advancing the cam maybe? usually around 6/8* advance , with 12.5 :1 compression ratio you should be lucky if it can manage 34* spark lead , bearing in mind all is ok with the heads , would account for you only pulling 5* on the nitrous run & the motor living , not bustin yer balls but thought i'd ask.
I'd never reccomend a timing figure other than a baseline when on the gas , would'nt be fair to blow someone elses motor up , take a run on the baseline figures , then tune from there when you've pulled the plugs & got an idea of what the motor wants.

Cam is advanced 4 degrees Adam, and Geoff hauser chose a bigger cam for it, i changed it down a little as it lost lots of grunt at the bottom end on the street.
The car is sweet, if you drove it you would nt fault it power wise, with no gas and its so crisp on the throttle..it just likes timing ??

Paul ran 150 shot and never touched his timing...12.2 at 109 on astock 360 bottom end ??

Darrells 69 ran 200 with no timing taken out and ran 11.5 @118 mustang ?? on 4 runs

Its a mystery mate

Steve , has the cam been ground with 4*advance , or advanced 4* from the cam card? , not that it makes much sense considering no one knows the motor specs.

AllKiller wrote:
Paul ran 150 shot and never touched his timing...12.2 at 109 on astock 360 bottom end ??

Darrells 69 ran 200 with no timing taken out and ran 11.5 @118 mustang ?? on 4 runs

Its a mystery mate

Lay you money those motors weren't tuned to there peak when runnin normally aspirated.

I degreed the cam and it needed 4 degrees
But put it this way Adam this car has had 4 cams, in the same set up and it always runs 12.7-12.4's on the motor alone..... 2 solids and 2 hydraulics of varying grinds all recommended weird

I know pauls Dart is pretty well set up and darrells Mustang is as crisp as anything i ve been in.
but would nt like to put money on their tune ??

AllKiller wrote:I degreed the cam and it needed 4 degrees
But put it this way Adam this car has had 4 cams, in the same set up and it always runs 12.7-12.4's on the motor alone..... 2 solids and 2 hydrulics of varying grinds all recommended weird

Spookey.

I know

Yep a 284 and 292 hyds and the Solid Crower thats in there now and the M.P. solid cant remember the grind that i sold Bob about 2 years ago

AllKiller wrote:Yep a 284 and 292 hyds and the Solid Crower thats in there now and the M.P. solid cant remember the grind that i sold Bob about 2 years ago

Advertised right?

yeah.

Steve , stick the cam card up so we can all pick holes in it.


































Only messin.