Mopar Muscle Association UK

I'll go with a silted block,take hoses off and back flush the block DISCONNECT the heater hoses or you'll fill the matrix with silt. How much coolant SHOULD the system take from empty and how much does it ACTUALLY take to fill it ? If it's less than it should be then theres likely silt in there. KD kettle descaler is good for this but you have to take off all the hoses and plug the outlets ,take thermostat housing off and fill to the top,leave a day or two and then flush from all outlets ,done 2 big old Austin lumps this year ,interesting what comes out Usually a pound or two of mud+rust

I think thats wrong,sorry.
You need to be able to turn the block over and back Bananarama! moving it around is the only way to really empty it
Please remember I had mega problems with mine and I flushed the block thru for hours with a high pressure hose at work. When we eventually pulled the motor some weeks later to check it out, stripped it to the bare block and flushed it again, Pounds of the stuff fell out, when we rolled the block over and over.
Try it but I think your looking in the wrong place it was obviously alright before.
Look back to when the trouble started, then think back to what you changed up to it starting to cause the problem.

I hear what you are saying about going back to the original pump, but I've kinda committed myself financially to this set up. If I could tunr back the clock, I'd definately do exactly that, but I'm here now.

I get what you are saying about too much water flow being as bad as not enough, but it seems that the flow rate is pretty much as per the original pump. Plus I can't understand why, if the water wasn't hanging around in the block long enough to cool it, that is is perfectly happy to sit stationary at the perfect temperature, but suddenly rockets when the car is driven. Also if the water was circualting too fast to cool the engine, the temperature gauge would surely be reading a sensible figure whilst the engine quietly cooks itself (which, in all fairness, it still could be doing for all I know). The water is definately drawing heat from the engine as it gets to almost boiling point before I kill it.

I'm sure that the pump does run a bit faster when the engine is under load, but my quick pootle around the corner didn't involve anything more than 2,000RPM.

With regard to the shifting, the engine seems to flick around between gears with no particular reason behind its decision. For a while before the rad blew, it was seeming to take an eternity to actually hit up shifts, and oftne the engine would seem to rev in neutral for a bit before it got into gear, backing off a little and then applying som,e throttle seemed to help. It is still doing that, but it is now shifting in and out of gears every 30 seconds or so, and the 'juddery' running is a new problem. The latter is a bit like when you get fuel starvation and the car chugs, but this happens very smoothly and quickly, like it is hovering back and forth between two gears once every half second.

I need to check the oil level, I did'nt notice the 'check when hot and in netral' bit on the dipstick, so I have been taking it as full when it is cold and in park. We didn't loose much (literaly a couple of table spoons full) when the new rad went in, but it has been dripping slightly from somewhere around the box, so it could have lost more than I thought. Also, the power stearing pump needs some more oil (which I don't imagine is a factor here) so I'll do that as well.

On the subject of oil, I vaguely remember watching classic car restoration on discovery, and them saying that older boxes need a different oil to modern ones. Can someone tell me what I need to get as Halfords and its spotty oik assistants seem to have taken over around here, and they couldn't tell you how many wheels a car has, let alone anything about gearbox oil!

Mech pump flows dependant on revs. Silly 'leccy in the bottom hose is flowing full on all the time.......Did you take the stat out? Or replace with a standard non modded one? I think this requires a new thread (or 2, one gearbox, one cooling) We are all going round in circles and you have said Heeeeeelppp many times Let's start a fresh page on this 8) The Tech Boffins require a clear guide of what set up, what problem and when it manifested itself (did you change anything?), and this includes the usual stuff such as gears, car, timing etc.

We're talkin' but he's not listenin'.

I am listening, I'm just floundering.........in over my head! Seriously though, you are totally right about corrupting this thread, I need to split the problems up so they sit in the correct areas of the forum, I think this one has just mutated a bit. Proper etiquette and clear questions......I'm bad, I'll resolve this immediately, apologies to the room.

I really am listening, as a newbie this forum is the most valuable and appreciated resource I could have hoped to find. As such I don't want everyone to think that I'm being heedless, I just want to make sure that the several hundred pounds worth of parts I splashed out on, on the advice of a suposedly trusted source, are definately not going to work before consigning them to either the bin or e-bay! Plus if it really does work, then there is another bit of info useful to the forum. Conversely if it doesn't work..........oh god, please just bloody work!

OK then.

Start a new thread about your transmission. Sounds like another "missing kickdown linkage" story to me.

Best way to cool a stock engine is with the stock system. Best way to cool a modified engine is with the heavy duty versions of the stock system. The most you will need is a modern core of an ally version.

The heavy duty belt driven fan if mounted correctly is enough to cool anything. Better still if it uses the stock Chrysler thermostatic coupling.

The stock pump is fine but if you really want more flow (not always a bad thing as long as you have a stock thermostat in there) use something like the "flow Kooler" pump http://www.flowkooler.com/

I really think it is a BAD idea to use an electric pump on a street car.

If you REALLY want to use an electric fan (both kinds of fans have their supporters) then wake up buddy! Buy from a place that tells you what the dimensions are (like Summit Racing) and get one that fits!

But Mopars have two things against them. The stock alternator is not good at putting out enough volts at idle and the stock wiring is not good at delivering anything like battery voltage even at higher rpms. See the Mad Electrical site http://www.madelectrical.com

Like "killer" I had a huge overheating problem. I tried alsorts which is why i now have an electric fan and ally radiator. But they didn't cure it. Getting better voltage in the wiring helped. Fitting an oil cooler helped. Getting the carb mixture right helped too. Lots of things. But the most important thing is cooling capacity. Make sure the radiator is big enough. Then the HD mechanical fan and stock pump should cope.

Can't thank you enough Dave, great links, I just wish I joined this forum about three weeks earlier and I wouldn't be in this mess. I will start another thread, but I'd like to close this one off with one last thought thanks to a long hard think and a bottle of plonk!

The original rad had the oil cooler on the bottom, so the oil level remained constant. The new rad has the heat exchanger on the output side, with connections top and bottom. That means that when the box isn't doing anything the oil drops to a normal level and probably leaves the heat exchanger dry. Check the level and everything is fine, but stick it in gear and the oil pumps into the new, longer lines, up about a foot higher than the stock rad, draining oil away from the box. The very dry box then gets super hot due to a lack of lube, what little is starts to run over temperature. That is then pumped to the cool side of the rad, and starts to heat the previousdly cool water. Thats to say that water that entered the rad and was then cooled by the fan, then gets heated up again by the seriously hot exchanger and then pumped back into the engine at the same temperature, if not higher, than when it entered. Net result, the water is at a perfectly acceptable temperature until it is forced to encounter super heated oil in the heat exchanger which means that the temp rises.

This is a theory based on logical though rather than the experience and valued technical expertise of everyone who has generously shared their thoughts with me on this. Does it sound like a plausible solution, or should I just lay of the booze and late night uneducated thinking?

Calvers bring it over to valley park tomorow and we will have a look (none of us are anywhere near as good as some of the guys on here,but more heads are better than 1)

Calvers! Be Worried!

I AM joking, That Two Lanes is okay. He Talks a great job, then his mates fix it! 8)

oh !!!!! ive been sussed

Two lanes, I'd be so over there in a heartbeat if it weren't for the fact I'm scared of boiling it. Every time Bananarama! 210f I've killed it and let it cool, possibly I'd be fine as its not quite at boiling, especially if you take into account antifreeze and the pressured system, but I'm really worried that even getting to Mitcham would result in blown head gaskets.

Can I just say that I'm really very grateful of the offer and I owe you a beer just for that. Assuming that I get everything sorted I'd love to get over to you and go for a cold beverage at some point, seeing as you are just down the road.

Alternatively, roll on over to woking....the kettles on and 'me casa, su casa!'

This is why I love this group, thanks everyone!

So why the thanks? Have we "fixed" anything?

No, but everyones input has at least clarified my thinking, pointed to some sensible solutions, and highlighted the error of my ways. Next time I plan anything, I'm going to run the idea by the forum and then start buying parts, not the other way around.

I'm very grateful for everyones input thus far, hopefully the hegalian dialectic of thesis, anthithesis and syntheis will eventually work out in my favour on this one! Give me cooling synthesis!