Mopar Muscle Association UK

Yes,dodgy crimps,some nasty ones are aluminium instead of tin plated copper.

Thanks guys. All input and help is very much appreciated!

While I'm looking into all this I'm thinking about replacing the cables that run from battery to starter and the starter solinoid. As the cables go down to the starter, ther is a chunky plastic looking thing around the two cables, what is it for?

Not seen that before.

It should be a continuous cable form battery to starter.

Apparently it is a holding device that used to hold an asbestos heat shield. The cables to the starter are continuous, they just pass through this thing.

I have connected my cables up and everything seems ok, car fired up good. I got it up to temperature and had the lights on and wipers running.left it like that for a bit and nothing got hot, the cables connected at the starter relay felt hot, but they are next to the engine and everything feels hot around there, so hard to tell.

One thing I discovered, I put a meter on the battery and when running its at 12.7V I thought it should be nearer 14V when running? Alternator looks to have been replaced before we bought the car, it's always started up fine even when left for a few weeks. Could it be just how it is?

it will only be 14.5 or so when the alternator has finished charging the battery

if the battery charge is low it just sucks in current and the voltage doesn't grow until the resistance of the battery increases as it fills

when fully charged its resistance to sinking any more charging current is massive, and you see full alternator voltage

measure after a run

see with your ammeter off you don't know how much to the + side it was swinging if it was showing near 30 amps that's about 25 flowing into the battery alone your alternator would strain to maintain 14.5 volts while its basically slinging a sausage into the channel tunnel....there just aint no resistance there


Dave

PS if you can get cables with pre formed connectors or connectors you can solder on

plumbers flux and lead plumbing solder and one of those camping gaz cannister blow torches will do the trick

you will guard against resistance in the connections at the battery

bolt on to the wire battery terminals don't necessarily make the best connection after 3-4 years up the front getting blasted with rain and dirt

Thanks Dave. I've just been for a good 1/2 hour run, put the meter on again and it's measuring 12.3V at the battery and on the alternator itself. Even when I hold the revs there's no change.

regulator not earthed?

busted regulator?

is it mechanical

if so you can adjust it

Dave

I'm getting good continuity from battery neg to regulator body.

Could it be anything to do with the bulkhead connector? As I have pulled that out to get the wiring changed from there to under the dash.

Just hooked meter up to ignition side of regulator, with engine on its getting 11.4v,

On FLD side of regulator I'm getting 11.1V

Also put meter on + side of coil, so that's reading from ignition sw, through bulkhead, to other side of ballast resistor, then to coil, getting 10.8v with engine running at coil.

So wiring through bulkhead connector and to regulator must be ok?

Check all your earths. Most common issue.

Make sure you have good contact between VR and body.

Just been out and cleaned up volt regulator to body and its connections, engine to body earth strap and battery to engine earth. Can't start car up tonight as little un has gone to bed. Will try it tomorrow. After that I guess it's get the alternator off and get it checked out?

I have a niggly thought about the bulkhead connector as that has been disturbed, but it look clean and I'm getting voltage at vr, ballast resistor and coil, although a bit under 12v

I thought my alternator was duff a while ago. Had similar voltages what you have.. but also thought it might be the regulator.
I'm not sure if what I did was right or safe, but I connected my multi meter to the battery, and with the engine running and the regulator disconnected, I touched the regulator connections together and the voltage on the meter read 17 volts. I quickly disconnected them and ordered a new regulator from cm frost. Fitted it and it was fixed!

Cheers Ed, I may have a quick go at that tomorrow, it would save me taking the alternator off to take it to be tested if that proves its ok.

I've ordered a regulator that has solid state internals, this looked pretty good and if it's not the regulator at least Ill have one in as a spare

This is it

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121703672807? ... EBIDX%3AIT