one rear brake getting too hot

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Thu Sep 05, 13 10:08 am

that be the spirit

if they are not smoking the paint off the drums U R OK

Dave

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Sep 24, 13 12:19 pm

Ive put a new flexihose on the rear and no better...still hot. Havent looked at the pushrod adjustment so will have a read up on that.

sorted for this year though...,MOTd, garaged up with just the occassional Winter run and hopefully the faries that break things while its parked up will fix this for me before the spring

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Sep 24, 13 1:53 pm

Steve, if the pushrod was over adjusted it would stick all the brakes up. I did that. I know. The smoke is impressive

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Sep 24, 13 2:01 pm

Gotcha Miles....Im stumped now then matey....hopefully they will bed in with use next year

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Tue Sep 24, 13 3:15 pm

they just adjusted up too tight

back em off till they stop rubbing

job done

check peddle doesn't go past 1/2 way and you are fine

Dave

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Sep 24, 13 6:35 pm

Done all that Dave...nothing binding when up on the stands.....parking brake wound right off....rolls fine with brakes off on hills...creeps in drive easily etc etc....they just get really hot wthen I use her...

w

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Oct 01, 13 1:10 pm

Had a conversation with a friend yesterday about this issue and he imediately said, as Latil did, pushrod adjustment. Im definately going to check this. He reckons it might be causing residual pressure in the system as exactly the same thing happened to his car. Especially considering that both of my rears are gettin equally hot. Will have a look tomw.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Oct 01, 13 1:47 pm

By "pushrod adjustment" I take it you guys are talking about the master cylinder pushrod being too long and so not allowing the MS piston to move completely back?

Or have I got my wires crossed?

This is not adjustable as standard. It is determined by the pushrod length.

The set up is different between power and manual brakes. MP do an adjustable rod which you can then adjust the length of to get your brake pedal height off the floor perfect. Although I had to cut extra threads into mine.

Apologies if I have got my wires crossed and you are talking about something else.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Oct 01, 13 2:03 pm

Thats what Im on about Dave...my book gives a measurement with a very tight tolerance.

I am going to measure mine and compare it to the master cylinder. My mate ran through exactly what to do and says the one on his car is adjustable by a nut on the rod. I dont have this nut as far as I can recall. Was thinking of shimming the MC with washers on the mounting face just to test it to see if it cures the problem before taking more drastic steps

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Oct 01, 13 2:22 pm

I may be wrong but as far as I know only the Mopar Performance aftermarket one is adjustable.

Power brake cars have a shorter rod that is on a bell crank lever. Manual brake cars have a longer one connected directly to the brake pedal.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Oct 01, 13 2:32 pm

Hang on that's rubbish. The power brake booster connects to the bell crank and there is a little push rod from the booster into the master cylinder.

It's been too long since i did this sort of thing...

I'll see if I can find a diagram.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Oct 01, 13 2:38 pm

This is the one in my book Dave. I just dont remember it having an adjuster on it when I fitted my new master cylinder....

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Oct 01, 13 2:39 pm

Is screw 5-100-62 and adjustment on the power brake?? I don't remember seeing that before.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Oct 01, 13 2:41 pm

It looks like it Dave....that is the nut my mate was on about...

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Oct 01, 13 2:41 pm

Looks like the same thing on my diagram Steve. I have no memory of seeing that adjustment before.

But then again what else is new.