Mopar Muscle Association UK

you wont......
Crower pro street level 5, 3800 - 6800, 7200 redline
Lobe centre 108, 310 in / 318 ex advertised, 265 in / 267 ex @ .50
574 in/ 585 ex lift on 1.5 ratio rockers

LSA @ 108* /duration @ .050

265/2 = 132
132-104 = 28 (104 being IC @ 4* advanced) IV opens 28* BTDC.

267/2 =133
133-112 =21 (112 being EC) EV closes 21* ATDC.

28+21 = 49* of overlap is there any vac

At least advance the cam a few degrees , will help with cylinder pressures also opening the EV a tad earlier , watch the p/v clearance if you have any.

I'd be inclined to speak to a cam manu , see what they have to say.

That's a HUGE cam , if you widened the LSA & kept the rest of the grind the same it would help when runnin the gas , will also raise manifold vac.

Bet she runs like a raped ape around 7000rpm.

It is critical to purge the Nos lines when running Nos.
If the system is triggered with the feed line full of gas, especially if the bottle is in the boot, as opposed to liquid it will effectively be to rich on fuel for the launch which will poop your 60 foots and risk bore washing the motor until the Nos line clears the gas and the mixture is corrected.
More damage can be done running the motor rich than lean.
The idea of motor banging the Nos is extreemly risky depending on the rig but the engine could easily run away from you, just ask Adam who did his burnout at Shakey on a 300 shot
If for any reason you Nos stall on the line effectively you could have a couple of combustion chambers full of Nos charged mixtures and if you try to restart there will be no retard and the results can be catastrophic, so its important that you push back of the line remove the coil wire and spin the motor to clear down the chambers before restarting.
I also have a feeling that low compression engines with smaller Nos shots are far easier to tune and show more marked results than the higher compression engines with big shots.
It is a bit like running a low comp blower combination.

There is no Vacuum...but thats for shrink wrappin and fetishists

I have a huge vacuum pump under one of the front wings doin that stuff.

This was spec'd by the Guys at straightline and at crower when i sent the engine/car spec through.
Goef also agreed this would be a good choice...so that worked for me.

its a 383 so it revs and likes to....not a lanky 440

Remember this motor has been together for 8 years, with no probs at all now, apart from cam changes.

Steve , what's the reason for all the cam swaps? , is it trial & error , or something else?

This is over an 15 year period, advise, experiment, trial...the heads are the restriction in the equation....12.00 @118...its making power , but would make more with better heads.
This is a heavy car Adam, i know yours is, but so is mine, roll cage, subframe connectors, S/S springs....its much heavier than stock.

Just a quicky...what was your best run on the motor alone, stock heads, holley etc.

AllKiller wrote:
Just a quicky...what was your best run on the motor alone, stock heads, holley etc.

Best run was a 12.2.

Was just wondering if you swapped the cams out after head work bein done etc.

going back a few pages on this thread , .... the dizzy problem ... i know the stock mopar dizzy caps suffer from spark scatter at high engine speed .. ( not crossfireing from the leads ). if a non ribbed cap aftermarket cap is fitted , spark can ark to the next adjacent tower . had a high speed miss fire not long after i first got mine , right after i put a new cap on , no set pattern totally random . ran good before tryed every thing , plugs ,leads coil , points , condenser ...again ...... .... ......... looked inside the caps to see if there was any difference old one was ribbed ... put that back on no probs ... so got a new MP one still on there 19 years later no probs .
read in a mopar mag not long after that .. exactly the same problem with dizzy caps that were smooth inside , trying to think now but is said that it don't happen all the time , just under some conditions , also in the same article ..a guy was running a MSD dizzy on his RB with B1 heads , when they just come out , had the same problem with spark scatter cylinders fireing out order at high engine speed , he got a late model ford distributor , would of been early 80s then & made a odd ball one half mopar half ford & the ford cap & dizzy head are much bigger than the others the towers are spaced further apart . never had a problem after that ,
just though i would mention this bit of info .. might be useful some time

Brutus wrote:

AllKiller wrote:
Just a quicky...what was your best run on the motor alone, stock heads, holley etc.

Best run was a 12.2.

Was just wondering if you swapped the cams out after head work bein done etc.

What head work? they are big valve 906's polished and cleaned 18+ odd years ago...never touched since.

My best runs on the motor alone, were 2 x 12.4's with the present cam so i guess its good
even giving away 57 cubes

MSD do this cap to sort that

steveo wrote:going back a few pages on this thread , .... the dizzy problem ... i know the stock mopar dizzy caps suffer from spark scatter at high engine speed .. ( not crossfireing from the leads ). if a non ribbed cap aftermarket cap is fitted , spark can ark to the next adjacent tower . had a high speed miss fire not long after i first got mine , right after i put a new cap on , no set pattern totally random . ran good before tryed every thing , plugs ,leads coil , points , condenser ...again ...... .... ......... looked inside the caps to see if there was any difference old one was ribbed ... put that back on no probs ... so got a new MP one still on there 19 years later no probs .
read in a mopar mag not long after that .. exactly the same problem with dizzy caps that were smooth inside , trying to think now but is said that it don't happen all the time , just under some conditions , also in the same article ..a guy was running a MSD dizzy on his RB with B1 heads , when they just come out , had the same problem with spark scatter cylinders fireing out order at high engine speed , he got a late model ford distributor , would of been early 80s then & made a odd ball one half mopar half ford & the ford cap & dizzy head are much bigger than the others the towers are spaced further apart . never had a problem after that ,
just though i would mention this bit of info .. might be useful some time

Interesting info Steve.

The MSD caps are ribbed , so all good on that front.

AllKiller wrote: even giving away 57 cubes

You got any steel panels left on the cuda?





























Only messin Steve , wind up time.

I know Adam....

The weather is takin its toll a bit on the panels though...so it getting lighter

Picked up the MSD 'adapt a cap' along with some 11mm morroso ignition leads , it's a Ford cap really , post terminals are around a mile appart , so should do the job & hopefully sort the misfire problem , the rotor is in two parts with a two slotted bolts , so should be easy to phase , then again with the spacing on the terminals it should'nt be an issue , will need to machine the valve cover me thinks for the cap to clear.

Oh well , had to pull the alu valve cover off & cut a lump out the corner to get the adapt a cap to clear , now waiting for the chap to weld a gusett in there so i can finish the job , PITA , as the motors off the road again.