Mopar Muscle Association UK

Pete wrote:Slippery slope time

i know all about that

Ivor

I`m weighing in at 2400 lbs but don`t forget that`s smallblock and absolutely no creature comforts, no dash, no wipers, no glass, no exhaust, no handbrake etc

Every single thing that isn`t needed I have chopped out or cut holes in... ( see doors and lack of dash for example )
Drives really nice on Caltracs and drag shocks up front but could never go back on the street

I reckon you should aim for 2700 lbs as a target

Well, I'm trying to avoid the slippery slope and a full tube frame that really is the proper way to go, but I can see that coating 30k easily and I'm already half way there on parts!

With your experience of the Valiant Jon, I'm sure 2,700ibs is a very realistic figure...I'll be keeping a record of all that comes of and all that's going back on.

I've got to admit I've got discs up front and they seem to weigh a ton, but I can't afford to go for lightweight racing stuff, so I'll have to bite the bullet and keep 'em.

This is going to be very interesting I will of course be 100% honest as regards weight...even if I do make myself look like a complete idiot.

Ivor wrote:...even if I do make myself look like a complete idiot.

what again!!!!!


interesting thread this, i was speaking to jon at the nats last year on lightning cars, obviously a lot depends on if you want to drive it on the street, but one things for sure thou, jon doesnt pussy foot around when he says he's doing something he does it, look at the cheese holes in his valiant - even blue hasnt got that far (yet!)

Yea but my doors are fibreglass, they ain't getting any holes cut in 'em...

thats a good point, not much weight saving cutting holes in fibreglass

if ivor really does want to go FAST and have a useable STREETCAR his best aproach is to build a nitrous motor so much easier to build a fast car this way can be docile on the street and still have an element off comfort hit it with the gas at the track and you have a stormer getting a racemotor to be friendly on the street is bloody hard

Thanks Dunc...appears that I'm doing it all wrong...

I'll get there, I may be the long way around...but let's put it this way, it won't be slow and let the Mopar boys down, that's for sure.

Cannonball wrote: getting a racemotor to be friendly on the street is bloody hard

You can say that again

No it isn't - just add lots of money and technology

It's probably the way forward......

Pete wrote:No it isn't - just add lots of money and technology

It's probably the way forward......

Money & technology will get you 75% of the way, without knowledge, experience, determination, you will never get to the 100%

mopar_mark wrote:

Pete wrote:No it isn't - just add lots of money and technology

It's probably the way forward......

Money & technology will get you 75% of the way, without knowledge, experience, determination, you will never get to the 100%

Great quote Mark , sadly it's also true , knowledge IS power.

Ivor

Not sure i can add anythin to usefull in the tech dept, but hopefull the references to my tatters and brown star have been usefull though

Blimey just found this! There are sooooo many combinations!..
After driving a back halved B body on the street for a lot of years, I enjoyed it apart from.... The stock brakes, and the heavy steering. But I agree with Pete and Duncan.... A "B" body can carry it better than an "A" body. I did not have much choice, 2 kids, 2 tents, food and all that crap for a weekend away meant full interior. Could not have a trailer, nowhere to put it and nothing to tow it with.
But I guess on the whole, I would rather drive it to the destination than trailer it. But I do realise there are limits!
Best of luck with it Ivor, really looking forward to seeing it.

Most Street A-bodies on springs seem to hit a wall at around 10.00sec!
(Not directed at Pete that comment)
B-bodies seem better at running faster.
Why is this?
More weight/wheelbase is probably safer I guess

Bacca