Mopar Muscle Association UK

You’re absolutely right, Dave, but that’s exactly the reason I didn’t. I did my best to try and get the scratches and damage out, but it wasn’t happening, so I went for the 2nd best option. Incorrect to original, but tidy enough. Think the damage would have looked even worse against fresh paint.

I also ended up painting the egg crate surround, as that was really battered, so hit it with some wheel steel. None of it is up to factory standard or correctness, but it will do until I can afford to find new parts to do a better job on.

Shame.

Being aluminium I would have tried polishing or having it polished in those areas. Not as good as plated but better.

Make sure you paint the pinch weld matt black along the bottom of the sills as well if not already done. It's a pet hate of mine. I even pulled up Graveyard cars for not doing it on a customers car when I was there.

Dave-R wrote: Sun Jun 25, 23 3:15 pm Shame.

Being aluminium I would have tried polishing or having it polished in those areas. Not as good as plated but better.

Yes, tried polishing it out, but to no avail. Some deep scores and scuffs at the front edge and thisck black brushed on paint on the wave around the crate, so no chance really. Sure a machine shop somewhere could have done it, but the ones I spoke to were too nervous to touch it, so it is what it is now. Budget and time mean it has to be done as well as I am manage now and then I’ll likely take my time whilst it’s on the road restoring replacements that I can take as much time over as I like whilst I drive it.

Massive learning curve for me, so not going to be spot on straight away, but by the time I hand my daughter her inherited bit of history, it should be better.

Stu you have done a great job so well done.

yes it is easy to spend a lot of money (if you have spare) but most do what they can within their budget and doing it themselves as good as they are able to.

She will look better than before and that is a BIG achievement

Cheers Ali.

Well, having yanked the rear bumper and valance, this was going to be my today job, right up until I realised they don’t come with the rear bushings installed, only fronts.

Oh well.

The other thing is, having identified which is left and which is right, I can’t see anywhere if that’s looking from the front or the rear of the car.

I’m assuming from the front, but can anyone confirm?

They should have part number on them, if not the set with the most leafs goes on the Pass Side...

You did not have to pull the Bumper to do that, but it is far easier (but not impossible) to do the job with the Vallance off...

Fit the Shackles to the springs and car first, and then jack the spring up so that the Front Hanger engages in the Torque box.

Also you need to decide what finished ride height you want when installing the Spring in the front hanger hols.

Pete wrote: Sat Jul 01, 23 3:55 pm They should have part number on them, if not the set with the most leafs goes on the Pass Side...

You did not have to pull the Bumper to do that, but it is far easier (but not impossible) to do the job with the Vallance off...

Yes, I know which is which from the part numbers, but that only correlates to left and right. What I mean is, is that left when you are looking at the car from the front, I assume, not the rear?

Had to pull the number anyway, I forgot to mount the adjustment bolts when I put it on, so it’s all off for now to be redone. Besides, as the bumper is new, I know exactly what would happen if I left it there…

Pete wrote: Sat Jul 01, 23 3:55 pm the set with the most leafs goes on the Pass Side...

Ok, that ties up with left as you look at the car. Cheers Pete.

Next dumb question, the front hangers have a rounded edge and an angled edge. Does it make a difference which is top / bottom?

I would imagine the angled bit is to clear the floor pan.

That’s possible, yes. Will see when I offer them up tomorrow.

The Plates are handed and will only go in the Torque Box one way - try a dummy up first before mounting to the spring....