Mopar Muscle Association UK

Well after a couple of hours with my angle grinder then the strip-wheel, then 3-4 hours With my Dremel, it's De-Ox time.
I worked it in with a toothbrush then laid loads more on with a paintbrush.
I've laid on several layers of clingfilm to stop it drying out and have a heater to keep it working.
I'll leave it now til tomorrow and see how it's done

The pain in my eyes subsided a bit this afternoon (from having 13 bits of metal pulled out of my eyes by a nice nurse this morning...) so I though I'd make the most of my day off sick.
The Deox had been on 24hrs and even with 3 layers of clingfilm had dried out quite a bit. The effect was still dramatic!
The gunge under the climgfilm came off with a lot of hot soapy water and a lot of scrubbing to reveal at least 3/4 of the rust had dissolved away.
VERY satisfying
You can see in the close-up that the deeper pitting is still rusty. I've painted a second coat on now and clingfilmed it. We'll see how that's done tomorrow...

I'm having a short break from de-rusting while I buy in an air die grinder- my Dremmel has packed in again!

So it's ENGINE REPAIR TIME

Chris at WASP is ringing me next week with price/ availability of the valvetrain stuff I need. I've just loaned a spring compressor from Ade J and I've got 'The Step By Step Guide To Blueprinting' by Rick Voegelin from my mate Dunk (not Dunc) who's built tons of race motors and currently maintains about £10m-worth of racecars for his ridiculously rich boss, so I have a good helper there!
I'll need a spring pressure tester please if anyone have one I could borrow? and I'll go through all the clearances etc.

Not great progress as the valve spring compressor didn't fit

I did get my two new rockers (thanks Blue) swapped for the two damaged ones. This was a struggle as the shafts are slightly ovalled where some of the clamps fit due to over-tightening (most likely by me).
I had to heat the rockers to get them off! I corrected the end of one shaft in the vice, not ideal practice I know but it was only a few thou and I was very gentle The new rocker slid on so easily Scarlett did it!
We took the studs out aswell. Some were loose, some needed the two-nuts trick which Scarlett was well impressed with

I'm on the lookout for a longer reach compressor now, as well as a pressure measuring device...

Rear panel rust free at last!
This killed my Dremel twice and inspired me to buy an air die grinder, as well as several soakings in rust killer.

And... I now have a REV LIMITER! Thanks to Dave Billadeau for my new Mallory ignition

Wow wow wow looking great

AAARRRGGGHHHHHH!!!! This is doing my head in now


The tool I borrowed from Ade J I got to fit eventually but had to give up before I damaged it- the valve didn't budge, it was bending the tool!
I borrowed two of the lever type. One Sykes-Pickavant, one German made so not cheap crap.
I had some success, I got the inlets out with the S-P one, but with a smack of a mallet to loose the tapers and enough strain to bend the tool frame and nearly put my shoulder out of joint I still couldn't shift the exhaust valves more than about 1mm!

ANY IDEAS??

You try getting the valves out of a Hemi.

We had to build a purpose-made tool that was strong enough to compress the springs whilst being able to straddle the wide head........

welded the tool end onto a large shach clamp and then put a t bar on Handel and wind it down slow have loads of clamps if you want to play with.

Welding capri up so in all weekend

That's what I did, Fettish!!

Or pin the head to a bench weld a co2 sensor removal tool or cut a socket up weld it to a large pole . Hinge pole off wall/bench and push down


Or don't you have a milling Machine


Or head on floor in a door way large pole and bottle jack

Thanks boys, I'll look into that tomorrow

Stick them in the hydraulic press using the valve spring compressor part so you can remove the collets. I alway give them a very had smack with a large drift and club hammer to free the collets.

Cracked it
Hydraulic press to the rescue. So easy I feel like I'm cheating!

While I was at it, I measured closed spring length. I used the press to fully open the valve (0.585"), then opened it further (very gently!) until the spring bottomed out.
I worked out I have 0.1" spring gap at full valve opening