Page 7 of 10
Posted: Thu May 07, 15 9:44 pm
by MattH
Got a plate thanks to the ever resourceful Royston posse!
Will try to get it fitted and see what else I find.
the loose bolts you said John were my very first thought back in February.
I've been round the houses a bit since then and ended up very close to the same place.
Posted: Thu May 07, 15 9:48 pm
by Pete
Well done.
Lots of Beer Tokens!!

Posted: Fri May 08, 15 8:07 am
by terryr
May have been a godsend Matt,caught the big end before it wrecked your crank
Posted: Fri May 08, 15 9:14 am
by Pete
terryr wrote:May have been a godsend Matt,caught the big end before it wrecked your crank
Totally agree, Terry.

Posted: Fri May 08, 15 6:06 pm
by Mick
You ought to fit an SFI flex plate they're a lot stronger but make sure you get a weighted one if it's externally balanced.
Mick
Posted: Fri May 08, 15 6:12 pm
by Pete
Posted: Sun May 10, 15 12:16 pm
by MattH
Box dropped this morning, flex plate out, and it is a different size to the replacement, so there are different size plates.
It seems I need a 10" flex plate, not an 11"
Posted: Mon May 11, 15 10:22 am
by Dave999
any way to check the alignmnet of the end of the crank with centrerline of the box?
aussies who put hemi 6s on torqueflites suffer cracked flex plates and often it appears to be the bad alignment of the box adpator plates and engine that is the cause.
and not just left right up or down in the plane of the bellhousing face
but 1 side of the bellhousing being slightly shorter than the other leading to 1-2 degree angle at the join.
sorry this is meant to help, not be the harbinger of doom
think you put a dial gauge on something that moves and run its tip agains the machined edge of something else...erm manaul tells you how
it probably involves chrsyler tool 12345678910. which most probably resembles a plate and 2 bolts. and tool 234537385493 which probably resembles a kettle and a cup of tea combined with a trolley jack and a very stiff neck
Dave
Posted: Mon May 11, 15 10:29 am
by MattH
Dave, I suspect the fault may be down to what Dunc suggested, storage for years in the garage, possibly with the flex plate touching the trolley it was on so may have bent it slightly over time.
Posted: Mon May 11, 15 12:55 pm
by MattH
Got a new plate from Hausers now, a B&M one.
Pete, is this what you suggested was the best route?
Posted: Mon May 11, 15 12:57 pm
by Pete
Yep, told you I had a spare unless the crank bolt arrangement is different...not sure, really.....
Posted: Mon May 11, 15 1:03 pm
by MattH
This one lines up with all the holes, and there is a massive amount of metal compared to a factory one. Geoff Hauser said the standard ones break all the time.
Posted: Mon May 11, 15 4:37 pm
by MilesnMiles
Good choice Matt, I had one of those and they don't bend easy

Posted: Sun May 17, 15 2:17 pm
by MattH
Turns out not a good choice.
All bolted in, everything hooked up, go to spin over for some oil pressure, starter won't engage.
get the Bxxxxxd off after dropping steering again, strip and check it, all OK, test on bench works fine, back on car same problem, just spinning, no engage.
check wiring (lots of time!!) with meter. All OK,
Last look underneath, and test shorting across motor terminals to make it spin.
Oh. Thats the problem then. Starter solenoid can't flick starter gear back into mesh with ring gear because the Bananarama! flexplate is too large a diameter.
Whole Bananarama! lot has to come out again to remove flex plate and replace it with a stock one.
FFS. I'm really sick of this now, and my garage floor is a dusty Bananarama! pit at the moment, which i have to constantly lie in.
post
Posted: Sun May 17, 15 3:22 pm
by moparnutterz
I did exactly the same Mat, just get a mini starter, job done
