Mopar Muscle Association UK

Im very interested in spraying cars and other things,

sprayed a few cars, my charger, a chev, reliant, few tractors, and 70rtse,s charger.

so i have a fair idea of what im doing.

Does it really make a difference if you use the more expensive hardeners and thinners?

as when i spray 2k with standard thinners it comes out a little bit orange peely, but when i sprayed Andys charger he had a dearer thinners, and it was a perfict finish.

so is it me or the thinners?

Probably more down to the air temperature when the paint is applied. Just get the 2000 grit out and nibble it

usually flat and mop after.\

air temp is usally the same as i get it red hot with a gas heater.

And does laquer hide a thousend sins? as when i used that it looked great.

craig, a better finish is deff achieved with more expensive products when you get 2k to the stage off no orange peel it is also on the edge off running, you have to find a happy medium, as 01 said you can bring back a lot with wet flatting and moping back, its great stuff 2k when it goes right

Can also kill you, if you do not have correct respirator!

Iv got a resperator jeff.

Yeah Dunc its either perfictly smooth with runs on the edges, of no runs but orange peally.

geues it just takes lots of practise.

whatever you do Craig, I would always recommend using a complete 2K system from the same manufacturer...just to give you an idea of what can be achieved, my Road Runner was a gun finish, I used a wet on wet system, no sanding between coats and didn't even flat and Bananarama!.

SO with wet on wet you put the paint on when the first coat is still wet, tried that, usually runs.
i usally wait till the paint has gone tacky then put anouther coat on.

CRAIG wrote:SO with wet on wet you put the paint on when the first coat is still wet, tried that, usually runs.
i usally wait till the paint has gone tacky then put anouther coat on.

No Craig...whatever you do, don't do that! you'll and up with the worst paint job on the planet!

Wet on wet is a technique, which involves mixing certain types of specific primer surfacers and applying them consecutively to avoid flatting between coats...each coat must be flashed off properly between coats, as usual.

All you have to get right is the initial preparation, which has to be spot on and make sure there is no dust and dirt contamination....and Bob's yer uncle!

Oh...and what Julian said!

What i mean Ivor is what Julian said, i wait for about ten mins so all the paint dust has gone and the paint has nearly dried.


would like to now more about the wet on wet, as i still dont understand.

I wasn't ignoring you Craig (unlike my mate with the Fergie tractor! )

By using the latest paint technology, you can, if you are feeling brave and you are set up correctly paint an entire car without sanding any of the new paint.

Obviously preparation is the the key in every sense of the word, so I'll explain how my last paint job went:

I stripped the paint with 10" strippit discs on an air polisher and took the body to bare metal.

After panel beating, welding and filling I hit the entire body with the DA dry of course, using 80 then 150 and finally 320 discs.

Next I pre-cleaned the entire body applying Pre-Kleano 900 (the strong stuff) and wiping it off with a clean, lint free cloth.

After blowing the body off with a blow gun, getting into all the nooks and crannies I applied two pack epoxy etch primer.

Once that is fully flashed off and dried, you have two hours to apply the wet-on-wet primer. If you leave the epoxy etch any longer, you will need to sand it.

After an hour I applied the wet-on-wet primer, flashing off five minutes between coats - two coats over filled repaired areas and just one full coat over the rest of the car.

After 20 minutes drying, I applied three coats of basecoat metallic with five minutes flash off between coats.

Left that 15 minutes and applied more clear than I needed, one light coat and two full coats, allowing five minutes flash off between coats.

That was it finished and me absolutely shagged...try applying that to a complete B body Mopar and you'll know what hard work is.

Despite what the paint manufacturer's say, it's always better to allow any paint job at least a week, even if it's a fully low baked paint job, to settle and cure properly before you start messing around with the car sticking trims on and stuff.

The next Mopar paint job I'm doing is going to be slightly more difficult!;)

how long does it take you to get round the car??

just curious cos it sounds like a very hard job to keep on top of the time scales once you start




Dave

Good stuff,what is your ideal air temp for painting?

Dave first - it takes me about ten minutes to put one full coat over the entire external surfaces of B Body Mopar, you can double that if you are doing the door, boot and bonnet shuts.

Basically, with a fully prepared and masked car, it still takes me a full day to paint one, stopping very briefly for the odd cup of tea and a fag.

Steve, ideally, I try to apply the paint at an ambient temperature of about 65 degrees F or more, though I've painted cars in cold conditions, but it's not a good idea.