Mopar Muscle Association UK

Have you the right bolts between FP & crank , these are the same size as the FP to convertor , which have a shallow head to them.

If you use the wrong bolts , they will damage the block.

Don't use washers , you must also use locktight on all the bolt threads.

Julian , lock tight FP to crank & FP to vertor , had a few come loose on mine , even though i torqued them down tight.

If you wanna take a chance on ripping the block to bits then don't lock tight them.

The same applies to the crank bolts , do you really wanna take the box out if they come loose.

What's with the degreasing.

you need a bit of "play" as the convertor must NOT be a tight fit against the box. on our race car Al Oconner recomended up to an 8th of an inch.Ask Duncan or Blue for more info.

SteveB wrote:I think his is tight the other way Dave, not against the box; against the crank.

oops just reread it

Julian wrote: Do you think it's necessary even for my engine which is just slightly more tuned than standard, ie it's not going to do 9000rpm down the 1/4 ever? Julian.

I 100% agree with Adams recommendation, clean off that grease & loctite the buggers. As for your slightly more tuned engine, flex bolts are not fussy & will come loose if not secured on any type of engine.

If it worth doin, its worth doin well.

You did fit the converter to the trans and then the trans to the engine yes?

Just making sure you didn't fix the converter to the engine/flexplate first.

Had to check. Some people are just not used to these automatics.