Page 1 of 1
Durango ABS
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 08 10:40 am
by Pete
Following on from a check with a Snap On On board diagnostics reader, I have the "ABS" and "BRAKE" warning lights up permenantly on the old dashboard.
The Snap on could not detect any fault codes, but had very limited access tothe ABS area of the diagnostics.
The weird bit is you can't see any wires or sensors on any of the wheels, so how does this work??
It did detect a "speed sensor" fault code, but that has now been re-set and the dash lights are still up....
Any ideas?
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 08 10:52 am
by Jeff
See other post!
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 08 2:16 pm
by Kev
This should do the trick!

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 08 2:49 pm
by steveo
silly question but is the abs working , if all ok try disconecting the battery for half hour or so , but make sure you have the radio code first, if there is one. had to fix similar problems on abs 4x4 sierras & mondeos etc , turned out to be a pressure regulator module , looks like a distribution block
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 08 1:15 pm
by Dave999
the ABS will probably work with a reluctance trigger coil n magnet in a 1/4 inch by 3 inch tube 2 or 3 wires
these need to be mounted somewhere where they point at a trigger ring that will be
1) in the back of the hub
2) attached to a rotating part of the axle
and so could be embedded into a steering knuckle the caliper or pointing at a trigger ring on a CV joint or other area the moves the same RPM as the wheel.
some cars can get into this mess if you have the habit of pulling on the hand brake while still rolling forward with the ignition on
don't know if its a hydraulic thing but it trips the check light on both alfas and suzukis
i have both and a very steep drive.
luckliy the alfa clears automatically after a few pumps of the brake peddle
the suzuki just triggers some light which means ECU fault which goes if you switch off and disconnect the battery.
yes i have my radio code
OBD II is a funny thing some ECUs have a number of different resets
standard kind the fault clears when the ignition is cycled and the issues is resolved i.e washer bottle empty
soft reset the code dissapears if the ECu is powered down. the fault code resides in none persistant memory. it will return if the issue still exists
Hard or special types of reset
registration of new imobilisor key press and hold until LED flashes and igntion is in on position, kind of thing
or for throttle position sensor etc
Hold in certain position cycle ignition wait 15 minutes etc
or disconnect battery positive
short negative lead to battery positive (this triggers full back to factory setting on some BOSCh ECU (use with caution)
you need to look them up for your ECU
the rest involve the right diagnostic utility or appliance sending the correct dealer approved code to clear down codes that relate to issues that only the dealer should fix.
and then there is the stuff that an insurance company or dealer would never ever ever use to dispute a claim or warranty max RPM for example
you can't delete them
Dave
Posted: Thu Feb 07, 08 8:43 am
by Pete
Thanks Dave for the advice; I will have another look at the car when I feel so inclined. That's the trouble with daily drivers; they are not interesting and you just want them to work............
Posted: Fri Feb 08, 08 6:23 pm
by Richard
Pete - some american pickups only have abs on the rear wheels. Also sometimes you can get the codes out of them without a computer - sort of like morse code from one of the dash lights you'll either need a shop manual or a more specific owners forum for help with that though.
Posted: Fri Feb 08, 08 6:44 pm
by Anonymous
Rear Drum braked pickups have Rear Wheel Anti Lock or RWAL.... totally different to abs, sensed by a tone wheel on the centre section which also reads MPH for the speedo. RWAL is not abs as all it can sense is what the crown wheel is doing and not what each wheel is doing.
So RWAL measures what speed the crownwheel is doing compared to the front discs, if the rear is slower it reduces line pressure until they equalize
Pete.... the year of your Durango... I'd say it's full ABS...sorry.... time to grovel underneath and check wiring and any tone wheels and sensors for damage
I very much doubt you will get codes by any of the so called ignition switch rubbish, after a certain year Chrysler caught on to the fact that if they made it impossible for the guy in the street to get codes it means more $$ for them... sure they stopped the ignition switch deal around 96/97... my ram is 98 and it's a scanner or nowt, it's also RWAL so reletively simple

the 2001 ram I had was full ABS and a nightmare
scanner here
http://www.bowserelectronics.com