Page 1 of 10
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 08 4:44 pm
by Blue
Hmm, see what you mean. Not so sure, what do the rest of you think? Doe's the pickup screw in past where it's broken, or is there a gap? Is it still at 3/8" or has it already been tapped out to 1/2"? I'm thinking it would split if you tried to tap it out. I can see the crank has a lot of work in it, appears to be fully polished with no sharp edges. You have main studs which is good. Block looks to have been fully de burred. Other than that bit of damage that looks to be a nice piece.
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 08 4:44 pm
by Pete
Opening it up wider and deeper and tapped for a 1/2" hemi pickup may work - get Geoff Hauser to check it out. I would always go for a big pick up mod for a race car as a matter of course.
The other fix is to run a single external line system as long as you can get a good sel on the block plug to make sure the oil does not cavitate. THis is not too expensive either.
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 08 4:54 pm
by Blue
I think that would be the best idea. You would need to plug the old pick up port, but you could do that at the oil pump end instead. From what I've seen so far, I'd be very tempted to put it back together with some good heads and that .590 solid cam you've got and have at it...
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 08 5:05 pm
by Pete
Good studded mains as well
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 08 5:13 pm
by Blue
No you don't have to, you could fit a static pick up into the pan you have now, assuming the deep bit has flat sides. I should have a new Milodon pump cover for sale shortly, you would just need the pick up for the pan and the oil line and you'd be sorted.
Re: The Jim Smith Project
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 08 5:37 pm
by Dave-R
Re: The Jim Smith Project
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 08 5:45 pm
by RayC
Posted: Sun Feb 10, 08 5:39 pm
by Blue
OK, '67 cars used an oddball single stud idler arm, which is both crap and expensive to replace, they have modified the k frame to use the later bolt through type, good move. The holes in the chassis rails are to heat up the captive nuts to release the bolts when they couldn't undo them. It's not a problem, just tidy 'em up or weld plates over them. The convertor looks like they picked it up at a swap meet, seller is claiming it stalled to 3500 behind a small block. looks like it could be a 10", it will stall higher behind a small block, maybe up to 3800. You need a converter to match the cam, in your case probably a 9" with 4200-4500 stall speed. I reckon that converter is one of the reasons your car wasn't performing. Need to find out what gears you have in the axle next, anything less than 4.88's would be doing you no favours....
