Mopar Muscle Association UK

instructions say
use chrysler tool kit xxxx
place cross bore Arbor into carrier bearing saddles and bolt up
place inner bearing on dummy pinion
put in dummy pinion and do up yoke nut
place chysler guage block on pinion head

try to push pinion head spacer shim through gap between arbor and guage block on head of dummy pinion

if it fits through with a bit of drag this is the standard shim for this diff

(i don't have chrysler tool kit xxxx)

next look at the crown of the pinion

if it has a 0 centre punched into it install this shim. it is the standard shim for this diff

if it has a +2 install a shim 2 thou thinner
ir it has a -1 install a shim 1 thou fatter

now

if i have a diff i want to modify

i take the pinion shaft out of the diff and remove its shim

is that shim married to that pinion shaft + or - the couple of though necessary for the marking on its head or only for that housing

or have i missed the point

i.e

if i pull a diff to bits and throw the ring and pinion away to be repalced with a set of gears i want

can i install my new pinion using the pinion head shim that i took out provided both pinions are marked the same i.e in this case +2


to illustrate further does a shim for a +2 pinion work with evry +2 pinion in every axle housing

or does the +2 shim for a specific axle housing work with any +2 pinion


or to put it the other way can i depend on the machined depth of the pinion housing being bang on every time thus shims under the pinion head are just gear and pinion related


does anyone know a good source of shims and bright coloured gunk for checking pinion to gear mesh.

manual says use red lead and grease? but doesn't give a chrylser toolkit ref for either which is nice

Dave

Dave,

That doesn't sound like the set up in the Chrysler Service Manual, are these instructions from the ring and pinion manufacturer?

Hotchkiss, Ivor

can i install my new pinion using the pinion head shim that i took out provided both pinions are marked the same i.e in this case +2

If both pinions are marked the same use the shim you have, but you will need to check the pattern for depth

to illustrate further does a shim for a +2 pinion work with evry +2 pinion in every axle housing

The shim will work with every pinion marked the same, different casings may require a different shim though, see above, check depth




or to put it the other way can i depend on the machined depth of the pinion housing being bang on every time thus shims under the pinion head are just gear and pinion related no you can't


does anyone know a good source of shims and bright coloured gunk for checking pinion to gear mesh.
I have shims for the 8 3/4

manual says use red lead and grease? but doesn't give a chrylser toolkit ref for either which is nice
I have some checking compound

Here's the way to do it if you haven't got the checking tool
The shim sits behind the back bearing right? (bearing in mind you haven't said what diff you're working on.
If it does and you've used the wrong shim ie depth pattern check is wrong then the only way to change it is kill the new bearing (they don't come back off easily) so you need 2 rear bearings, hone one out so it is a slip ish fit on the pinion, use the shim that was fitted and assemble, if it's got a crush sleeve leave it out for now and just nip the pinion nut, do the side bearing adjust ment and then check the pattern.
If it's ok then disassemble swap the back bearing and reassemble properly for the final time checking pattern again to be sure.
If it's wrong then disassemble and swap out the shim until you get the correct one to give you the pattern you need, keep using the checking bearing until you get the right pattern

Wil is spot on there.

Must get a spare bearing the next time I do one of these. But they are not actually easy to hone so not sure how to go around that. I know Geof Hauser does it that way.

I have also found that very very carefull measurement is the key if you want to get it right first time (without a spare bearing).

The pinion head should be marked with a checking distance. This is the distance from the center of the ring to the face of the pinion head.

To work out the thickness of the shim needed I measure the casing from where the pinion bearing sits, to the bottom of the saddle that the ring carrier bearing sits in. A straight edge across the two saddles helps with this.

I then add to that distance the radius of the ring carrier bearing.
That gives me the centerline of the ring from the bottom of the case.

Call this figure A.

I then measure the thickness of the pinion head and add that to the thickness of the pinion bearing. Then subtract those from figure A.

Last of all I subtract the checking distance from "A" too.

Whatever is left over is the thickness of the shim needed behind the pinion bearing.

Jobs a good'un.

Dave

I used a flap wheel slightly bigger than the ID of the bearing and kinda turned it in, this way the flap wheel has equal pressure all the way around so no bigger spots as you hone..... if that makes sense

Many many thanks fellas

its a Borgwarner diff.
aussie chargers
aussie ford falcons
Camero/firebird III

not much different from anything else really
shims under the head of the pinion
crush sleave or spacer
shims + spacer either side of hemisphere

bearing and beariong cup in each place you would expect
bolt down Caps or studs depending on year.

like a minature version of the chrysler friction cone based sure grip but with a 1 piece case and a back plate rather than a removable centre

I thought my reasoning was too good to be true.

right need a bolt down stand for my dial guage a decent set of verniers and some metal rulers.

progress will be slow but i'll get there

Neil
Will be in touch regarding the checking compound and the pinion shank size re shims

Dave