new Sherman body parts
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 10:39 am
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new Sherman body parts
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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 10:51 am
thats magic
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 11:43 am
Any update on your UCA problem Neil?
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 11:59 am
Wow, Sherman must be feeling the pinch with all the other people out there also manufacturing sheet metal now - $399 is a great price. Their Challenger fenders are still over $500 as I suspect are other peoples Cuda fenders......
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 1:15 pm
parts on the way from Mancini, decided to go tubular UCA and total front rebuild. May need some tips on castor/camber geometry setup. What tools do folks use? I was looking at a Sealey or a Longacre gauge.Dave wrote:Any update on your UCA problem Neil?
http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php ... s_id=13796
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ ... e=LON78260
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 2:08 pm
neil I got one of these longacre gauges if you want to borrow it
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 2:26 pm
I have one too Neil. But that Demon Tweaks one looks better.
The hardest bit is making sure the car is it ride height and perfectly level as you adjust them. And then finding a perfect verticle surface to zero the gauge on.
How much extra caster do these UCAs give you?
I just go for max caster on the stock set-up which saves trying to measure it. Measuring caster is very tricky and even a little subjective when done any of the more practical ways.
I don't think you would want more than 3 degrees caster unless you are doing circuit racing or something. Even then, 5 degrees would be plenty.
Richard Ehrenberg once told me not to use more than 2 degrees caster on the street. But to use at least 3/4 of a degree.
The hardest bit is making sure the car is it ride height and perfectly level as you adjust them. And then finding a perfect verticle surface to zero the gauge on.
How much extra caster do these UCAs give you?
I just go for max caster on the stock set-up which saves trying to measure it. Measuring caster is very tricky and even a little subjective when done any of the more practical ways.
I don't think you would want more than 3 degrees caster unless you are doing circuit racing or something. Even then, 5 degrees would be plenty.
Richard Ehrenberg once told me not to use more than 2 degrees caster on the street. But to use at least 3/4 of a degree.
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 2:41 pm
not specific on amount of adjustment, just says more positive caster.
with regard to setup, I did find a tripod attachment which allowed use of the Longacre gauge to be fitted to the wheel rim, so that the car could be on the ground, so you don`t have to faff around getting the car at ride height wheels off.
All arms are jig built, heli arc welded and powder coated. They come with MOOG ball joints, urethane inner bushing and bump stomps. We build in extra positive caster for improved stability. A Firm Feel power box and a set of these arms will dramatically improve the way your car drives. Can be usedwith short or tall spindles.
with regard to setup, I did find a tripod attachment which allowed use of the Longacre gauge to be fitted to the wheel rim, so that the car could be on the ground, so you don`t have to faff around getting the car at ride height wheels off.
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 9:57 pm
neil I only use the adaptor to measure the camber with the wheels on sitting the ground, the gauge on its own is fairly useless
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 08 10:06 pm
Had mine done local with one of those fancy lazer gismos got two pages of print out with it before and after type thing and they even did thrust angle too !!!!!!!! cost me £150 but car handles like a dream wheel comes back to centre after corners and steady as a rock at high speed ,no tram lineing either must be someone like that near you ??? mine was local coach works
UCA
Posted: Fri Aug 15, 08 8:53 am
Neil how much did they work out at mate 