Mopar Muscle Association UK

Probably a pretty dumb question, but after trying to get a better 60ft with different technique's and not bettering the time at all! some people said to try flashing the convertor, should i sit at idle and wait till the lights to throttle or hold the stall up slightly before giving it full throttle or hold to the stall and go from there??????? or just blip the throttle just as the lights are coming down???

What do you do?

I used to get best results holding the car on the (foot) brake and holding the revs as high as I could before the engine would start to stall. Then release the brakes on the last amber light and increase the revs much as possible without losing traction and full throttle as soon as possible.

Street tyres you are probably better off loading the convertor up on the line.

On slicks I like to sit at idle and mash the throttle when it is time to leave.

If your pump shot is the right size it will launch hard and the rpms will flash up faster.

Yes sorry, this was with Drag Radials.

On streets at the mo, but will be on slicks soon, found that the car tried to creep when loading on the stall, but maybe thats coz my foot was shaking too much? Will try it out and see if i can better it.

Mo, from my very limited experience, I get best results holding revs at limit on verter before giving it full on the yellow light. This obviously relies on brakes being able to hold car solid on the line. This is on slicks. If I do this on streets, they obviuosly just break loose in smoke. I guess if you launch hard on slicks, you need the carb setup right as Dave says, otherwise you run risk of bogging, you want the pump shot where you need it in rev range. You also need the power to keep going as the slicks bite - guess that gearing/wheel height, as well as rev sweet spot play their part.
Running 3.23's its a job to get it right, particularly with bogging.

On slicks the car has consitently performed better by slightly elevating the revs (but still allowing the accelerator pumps to function) and then mashing the throttle. However, this works best with a VERY slippy convertor. I think this is the deciding factor.

Wish i had the option , gotta keep the rpm lower than what the controller brings the spray in , got the spray hitting around 28/3000 rpm , so can't load the vertor up.

Gotta fit that throttle switch.......................................

I found that bringing the revs up just off idle and mashin the pedal work on both street and slick tyres for mine
On my JW convertor they recommended it

It depends on the stall of the converter. Which in turn depends on other factors.

If the converter is on the tight side I would stamp on it from idle because the rpms will "flash" up higher than if you load it on the foot brake. You want to leave the line as high up the torque curve as possible.

Raising rpms a little will drop some of the pump shot into the carb and richen it slightly. It will also put you onto the main jets. Mashing it from there will give you a slightly smaller pump shot than if you mashed it from idle. The combination of these two factors will confuse your tuning decisions.

With a loose converter I would bring it up to stall speed first because you do not need to flash the rpms up fast. On a drag car you would hopefully have a stall speed almost as high as the rpm drop when you change up a gear I would have thought?

True Dave...was nt really thinking about stall speed ...which was daft

Only thing i have noticed on some holding it against the convertor, they stage quickly and hold it on the Convertor and wait for the other car, quite some time.... which build tremendous heat in the trans....cant be to good.
I have also noticed that my 60fts are better when i just Bananarama! from idle...
so the lesser pump shot is noticeable as you say at raised rpm

If i try holding it at stall, it smokes the tyres on the line (frowned upon)