Mopar Muscle Association UK

whats the best bit of kit and accessory's for porting heads and inlets???

Lots of stuff on the web, Pete. But be careful!!
I looked into having a go, then decided to get someone who knew how to do it from experience

Good advice from Miles.

I would think that your average person would be best just doing pocket porting, and gasket matching. I think templates are available...it takes hours...

Ive got hours too spare, i like the little annoying jobs for some reason, i did do an old vauxhall 8 valve head couple of years ago, but was annoyed with the dremal i was using and its accessory's as they would just wear out in five seconds .

Doesn't Mark aka Newport100 sell this type of tooling ?

I did some port matching and smoothing with a Black n Decker wizard and carbide burr. Took a while but wasn't too difficult.
From this
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to this
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Couldn't tell you if they made a difference though as I found 'J' heads already on the car when I stripped it so these were never used.

The problem is Pete, that if you remove metal from the wrong places, the performance is worse.

I have not got a lot of knowledge on SB heads, but with BB, if you remove the metal in the exhaust port in the wrong place you hurt the performance big time.

"If you hit water, back it off by 5 thou...."

Don't touch the floor of the ports. Minor dressing on the roof and walls will not effect performance in a negative way.
Form the boss for the valve stem into a teardrop shape.
Smooth the bowl area so there are no ridges.

Be careful in the area each side of the valve seat.

Good gains are made by relieving the valves. So open up the sides of the chamber around the valve head almost to the head gasket.

You need a high speed die grinder, a cheapo Sealey one will do. You need a good quality oval shaped carbide burr, expect to pay at least £20 for it, I have had a Snap on one for about 12 years and it is still going strong, cheap ones shatter very quickly. You need a selection of emery rolls and a long arbor, I think Frost sell a set. You need to wear goggles at all times, unless you like going to casualty to get stuff dug out of you eyes, it has happened to me so many times it really ain't funny anymore. Carbide burrs cut extremely quickly so you need to practice using one, keep a good strong hold on the grinder and keep it moving side to side all the time. Have a look on the net for porting tips, gasket matching and opening up the throat under the valve job will help on any head, but don't start opening up or reshaping the port itself, that can actually result in worse flow. A bigger 'ole don't automatically mean better flow...

top one cheers fella's

You can get porting templates but I can't remember what firm does them unless it's Mopar tech dept ?????????

Mopar Performance porting templates are available from Summit and Mancinis I think.

My only bit of advice is BE CAREFUL! I've leaned the hard way

clean up
port match
3 angle valve job
unshroud if poss
clean up ridge from seat into port
smooth the sides of the guide boss (as per daves)

find someone with a flow bench before going any further was the gist of the advice i got

......here in fact.

and i intend to stick to it otherwise you just end up making a lot of dead slow areas in places where the flow speed needs to be fast.

Dave posted some mighty interesting articules from a hotrod man on a thread that had the terms quench and squish mentioned frequently

search will find it.

Dave

I looked at doing it (probably like many of us) as its looks on the surface like 'free' horsepower. Once you have forked out on the correct tools and potentially wasted a head or two (to paraphrase Lary Shepherd) it may be easier to extract horsepower from better timing, carb tuning etc..
That said, i've got some old spare heads, maybe I should try after all

Anyway, best of luck Pete, been impressed by your work on the scamp to date