Mopar Muscle Association UK

Right, I've bought a cheap, damaged 1999 plate Ford Focus for £150. Basically I just need a Bumper, both wings and the headlamps. All of which I have sourced. But the cross member is buckled and I need to replace that too. The only thing is the VIN plate is riveted onto it. Its also a bolt on item but is this gonna be a problem when I try and buy one?

Also, another shot in the dark. The Wings and Bumper I have bought are after market ones that are matt black and only £25 and £40 each! Mega cheap,eh? Anyway I need them painted a Metallic colour. How much could I expect to pay to have them done in a shop? Also, I'm quite handy with a rattle can but have never tried to paint in Mettalic. What kind of result could I expect? Will it match up on the car ok?

I'm only doing this to sell the car on. If I make a profit on this one I'll keep doing it in my spare time to help fund my next Mopar!

Come on! Dont be shy, any advice is better than none!

Hi Andy I have done some metallic painting from the can with reasonable results.
A good paint supplier will mix the color and sell it in a spray can
Basically the usual rules apply prep the surface and clean with a spirit base and tack rag.
The metallic finish is achieved with two tins of paint a base coat with the metallic effect in it and a second can with on opaque top coat.
the more top coat you put on the less the metallic shows through so don't over spray the second coat.
When dry light rub with 1200 wet and dry then a final clear coat of sealer job's a good un

Cheers K.C, I'm very tempted to give that a go. The local paint Shop around here is very good and it shows, there's a huge wait.

It is worth a go, try it on some scrap first it takes a bit of practice to load the second coat to the right density.
Also apply several thin coats to avoid runs and always start the can of the surface you are spraying and finish off the surface.
It is easy once you get the hang of it,

Knightcharger wrote:always start the can of the surface you are spraying and finish off the surface.

Could you clarify that please? Think i will give this a go. Gotta be a hellova lot cheaper than a shop.

Ok Andy the trick is to get a constant thickness of paint all over especially the second coat.
When you start spraying with a can you get a initial heavier splattering of paint due to there being paint left in and around the nozzle hole from the previous burst.
To stop this splattering effect occurring on the surface you are spraying start the spray to the side of the item you are finishing IE spray a little into fresh air then drag the can evenly and at a constant speed across the item you are spraying and don't stop straying until you have gone off the edge of the item.
always spray in one direction not up and down and across.
Hope this is a bit clearer.
Bob

You should be able to drill out the VIN plate and rivet it to the new cross member.
Provided the other ID marks are intact it won't look like you have rung a dodgy one.
A new VIN plate will have to be got from a Ford dealer and the police will need to inspect the car first before the VIN plate is issued, but again if the other marks are visible and intact (windscreen VIN and stamped VIN) then you could not bother with the VIN plate at all.

Cheers Bob! Thats very helpfull, I'll give it go!

Matt, if I just have to drill the VIN plate off of the old cross member and rivet it onto the new one why would I have to get a new one made up at a Ford Dealer?

Andy, Matt meant IF you need a new VIN plate, sounds like the one you have is okay.

Have you checked the car for referred damage? If the front cross member is buckled, I would have the car measured properly say on a Blackhawk Shark system, which will give you a print out of dimensions.

I've inspected cars over the years that have been hit in the front, buckled the cross member and bent the fuel lines and petrol tank.

I really would err on the side of safety mate if you are doing this to sell it on.

I would also recommend spraying the car properly and forgetting the rattle cans, I don't want to wee on your chips, but you could easily end up with a a dangerous old shed after all your work.

Just my

I don't want to wee on your chips, but you could easily end up with a a dangerous old shed after all your work.

Isnt that what some of us drive in this club? But with worse brakes and bigger engines.

Thanks for the advice Ivor,
the Cross member is just behind the Head lamps and is made outta metal as thin as a coke can. The Head Lamp just got pushed back into it. The Air Con pipes, condencer, Radiator etc are all untouched. The Cross-Member just took a bit of a knock and is not badly damaged but I was gonna change it for a straight one so it looks nice. The car took a very light ding to the front by an older Woman (who I bought it off of) she bumped a wall in the ice at almost zero miles an hour.


I was quoted £300 to paint the Wings and Bumper! And he cant ever start the work untill the end of March!

£300 is good, take it. Rattle cans will look rubbish IMHO.

OK I'll do that then. I'll not make any money off of the car at this rate!

Andy the boys are probably right rattle cans are ok for small jobs but front and wings should be done in a proper shop to make it look right.