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Starting problems
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 9:16 pm
by Pete
Here we go....
I know its a new motor and tight and 12.3:1 and has Max Wedge Ports and a Tunnel Ram with 2 x 750 DP's BUT...
Very hard to start when cold and impossible when hot.
Using a starter saver and an MSD Digital 6 with (allegedly) 20 degree timing retard below 600 rpm.
Locked out Dizzy at 34 Degrees.
The motor loves this tune - highest Idle rpm, crisp, great pick up; absolutely scary/lethal on the street.
Unless you stop the motor and want to re-start it
Any ideas?
I don't know how to test if the retard is working or even if you can.
Was thinking of returning to a dizzy with an advance curve to see if this would help.
Come and see it not run at the 'Pod tomorrow......
HELP!!!!!!
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 9:37 pm
by Anonymous
Sorry, dont have a technical answer, but it'd probably work in emergency cases!
Strating
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 9:49 pm
by Anonymous
Pete To check the retard from the MSD for the nitrous I used a snap on digital light and with the motpor on 3k operated the WAT switch and the timing light showed the retard.
Does the motor spin over ok without the ignition on? ie is it the fuel load or mechanical?
I know it is not a lot but Hope it helps.
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 9:50 pm
by Pete
Thanks Bob -there is no lead for this facility - it is internal.
I see where you are coming from, I will try to give it a go - very hard to do this at cranking speeds.
Retard
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 10:06 pm
by Anonymous
Hi Pete Sorry if I am being a retard but so is mine Just connected the timing light to no 1 and Bat and watch the numbers you will need a mate though.
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 10:19 pm
by Ashley
Pete,
Mate of mine had same problem with MSD start retard, ended up fitting a switch on the MSD unit, cranks the motor over then switces the MSD on, sorted
Hope this helps.
Yep
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 10:24 pm
by Anonymous
Brutal did the same and all OK.
Naughty Alan did not and split his starter in half.
Had to take his flywheel to the dentist.
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 10:36 pm
by Pete
Thanks guys, already using a starter saver as well as the integral retard system, still Zip
I think if I take all the plugs out and spin the motor over I should get 14 degrees if the starter saver is working, or 34 degrees if it is not; sounds like a plan .

Fuel
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 10:41 pm
by Anonymous
Shut the fuel off Pete you don't want it to drybollixs on you

Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 11:02 pm
by Cannonball
my chall never wanted to start with the cranking retard on it so never used it never had a start prob after, digital 6
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 09 11:16 pm
by Mick
Have you got 2 batteries Pete, my car wouldn't start when hot with only one.
I use msd 6 no start retard. just over 11.1 comp
Posted: Sat Apr 18, 09 6:43 am
by Pete
Hi Guys, yes - using 2 batteries for cranking as well

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 09 8:06 pm
by Anonymous
Those 750s will put a lot of fuel down the holes @ idle/transition , pull the metering blocks & try some wire in the idle fuel restrictors , this is the norm when running two carbs , i take it these are the 4150s? these will have the secondary idle circuit.
Good luck Pete.

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 09 8:52 pm
by Anonymous
When i was running the MSD distributor with standard cap the motor would'nt start when pulling 20*on the starter saver , this was due to the distributor not being phased correctly , what happened the spark would jump across to the next tower , pulled 10* out & all was fine.............. fitted the larger adapt a cap & phased the rotor positioning , never had a problem.
Those distributors can be out as much as 15* , start pulling 20* on the retard & it's around 35* off the rotor to tower , this is getting pretty near the mark regards crossfire , bear in mind you've only got around 90 crank degrees between terminals in the cap , also the rotor will find the easiest path & fire the cylinder with less cranking pressure , hard starting will result due to the rotor trying to fire off the next cylinder.
