yes
firstly 2 ignition barrels for these cars
early switch has no ears on it either side of key head, it's totally flat and you must depress to lock, no spare parts available at all, ever again...i have this one.
second version has a chrome ring with ears that stick up either side of key. to turn the key you turn the lot
these switches are available NOS
but look they cost $155
http://www.bluestarspares.com.au/store/ ... oduct=9019
but all is not lost
1 of the following will have happend
1) the balls and springs in ya switch have collapsed and shorted out (they are robust balls and springs they will have survived)
2) the 4 way connector on the end of the wires from the ignition switch is corroded and got very hot (most likely, we have had horrible humid weather so this really is the most most likely)
3) a wire between the ignition switch and the fuse box shorted out to the body work (well it could have done but the run is short and through a decent well bound loom, or it was)
the ignition switches are a sealed unit
its a throw-away-and-replace-it deal. In theory
in practice
prize the hammered in thin metal sections that hold in the Bakelite base back away from the deeper sections of the base rim (be really careful i snapped mine and its now all held together with screws out of sunglasses
put switch in see thru plastic bag
dismantle
the bag stops all the bits flinging out and taking out your eyes or getting lost
the springs are small and as previously stated ROBUST
rebuild it.
flat thing that the ignition barrel turns which is keyed onto a a flat copper slider which rides on 2 springs and 2 ball bearings which ride on 2 more springs in the case. the Bakelite base has a copper track on it that looks like Hampton court maze. the idea is you get it back together the right way.
I managed to put mine back together the wrong way twice. you need to visualize what connects to what in each key position so you get the copper slider in facing the correct direction in relation to Hampton court
if you have to fit the $155 switch to an early car you have to drill out the top to fit the nose of the lock barrel in, you need to remove both of the mounting lugs on it with a grinder and drill a small grub screw hole so it can be held into the lock assembly like the orginal .
to get the switch out
undo the column bolts under the dash 2 long ones going up
slacken the column bolts in the bulkhead a few turns 2 bolts into the ring clamp for the bottom of the column (pull back carpet to see)
turn you column round so your indicator stalk points at the floor
take off the thin metal covers to expose wires crumbs and old pay and display tickets that fell down there ( small cheese head screws)
then take out the 4 upper and lower massive phillips head screw-bolt things that hold the igntion lock to the column (i had to use an impact driver you probably won't have to)
underneath the ignition lock block is a tiny screw which allows you to pull the ignition switch out the bottom once removed
trace the wires up under the dash to the junction
its a trapizium shaped rubber thing with 4 bullet connectors
do not mix up the wires as you will be unable to start the car if you get them back wrong 4 wires 4 connectors loads of combinations to try trial and error
once you have the switch out you can snip off the trapezium wire that is burnt
halfords female bullet on the end of a new wire
solder to the bottom of the switch.
yes that bare copper wire that seems to tie 2 contacts together is correct
i eventually gave up with any push connectors and trapezium shaped widget here after suffering your issue twice
i used that choccy block stuff its white it comes in batches of 12 or 24 connectors you just snap off how many you want, the wires are held in with small brass screws like in a plug. no idea what it is called its the household electricians favorite bodge. get the big stuff good for cooker circuits 60+ amps.
Dave
