Mopar Muscle Association UK

hi all
put the general on a dyno machine today
bad move got to about 4000rpm and bang smoke oil everywhere.
having a quick look underneath it seems to be trans as its dumped all its oil.
im no expert but the motor seens ok as there is no obvious oil leaks and i dont think the exhausts were chucking out anything they should'nt have. on the other hand it will turn over ok with no obvious rattles or knocks but will not start!!
pushing it onto the road i could hear a clicking sound while in neutral and oil is still dripping out an hour after
as i said im not a expert so any help or ideas would be appreciated
cheers

nick

OOPS! Sorry to be there to see things go wrong mate. It's definately trans fluid. I've heard of torque convertors 'ballooning', but have no idea what that means. Can someone enlighten?

Torque convertor "balloning" can be caused by a number of issues , trans fluid to hot which distorts the convertor or too much torque output from engine which forces the fluid againt the convertor housing , this is the reason convertors should be specced for the particular engine , if a covertor ballons it can take out the trans pump &/or the thrust bearing , happened to me not so long ago , trans was fine but damaged the crank along with ALL main bearings.

Most good convertors will have anti balloning plates.

Has the convertor ruptured?

Brutus wrote:Torque convertor "balloning" can be caused by a number of issues , trans fluid to hot which distorts the convertor or too much torque output from engine which forces the fluid againt the convertor housing , this is the reason convertors should be specced for the particular engine , if a covertor ballons it can take out the trans pump &/or the thrust bearing , happened to me not so long ago , trans was fine but damaged the crank along with ALL main bearings.

Most good convertors will have anti balloning plates.

Has the convertor ruptured?

That's my guess Adam. Big bang, loads of smoke, trans fluid gushing out the box. But standard motor with standard trans and convertor? Is it likely?

SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE 2 PROBLEMS,
strange that the mtr wont start that should not tie in with the trans, if it turns over it should fire,
i doubt the converter has ballooned , never seen a stock everything end up with a ballooned verter,
maybe the trans has decided to die and bust up and blown the fluid out what gear were you in at the 4,000 rpms

to be honest im not sure what gear it was in at the time as the guy on the dyno was at the helm
i was more worried about the smoke at the time but i have a feeling i can remember the stick being in either 2 or d

not sure as to damage yet as it is all still in situ
thanks for the responce so far guys
nick

transmission is shot
i took off the trans sump plate today and most of the trans casting came with it
the main area of damage is dipstick side rear corner where the sump plate bolts on the whole corner has cracked off with more cracks above that.
does anyone know what could have caused this!

if anyone knows of a good 727 trans for sale at a reasonable price please get in touch.
cheers
nick

theorangeone wrote:transmission is shot
i took off the trans sump plate today and most of the trans casting came with it
the main area of damage is dipstick side rear corner where the sump plate bolts on the whole corner has cracked off with more cracks above that.
does anyone know what could have caused this!

if anyone knows of a good 727 trans for sale at a reasonable price please get in touch.
cheers
nick

it sounds very much like the rear sprag has failed and let the high gear clutch drum spin out off control and burst taking the case with it, you or the tester was very lucky he still has his feet, they are like a bomb going off and not uncommon to take the floorpan out,

i can supply and build you a trans, i may even have a decent s/hand one but thats your risk

watts racing transmissions
07974 088375

Bummer! A trans going pop is one of those fears we all have in the back of our mind. The Rover trans in my Truk went bang when a mate borrowed it- he got 2 wheels in a ditch and did all the damage in his efforts to free it
Fair play to him, he didn't shy away from the £600 bill but he got quite a shock!
Good thing we have Dunc on the team, hope it's not too expensive for ya

Scary, I only though the sprag broke under high load and tuned motors. Surely it shouldnt break at just 4k, unless matey had it in 1st gear?

MilesnMiles wrote:Scary, I only though the sprag broke under high load and tuned motors. Surely it shouldnt break at just 4k, unless matey had it in 1st gear?

Would of thought more than 4k.

MilesnMiles wrote:Scary, I only though the sprag broke under high load and tuned motors. Surely it shouldnt break at just 4k, unless matey had it in 1st gear?

the thing had prob already rolled its sprag a short time before the mtr got revved maybe the box took a good jolting on the rollers in 1st gear initially,
motor homes with the tflite fitted very often let go when people get them stuck and keep rocking between 1st and reverse, that's why its so unadvisable to burn this type off trans out in 1st gear on and off the gas Even with a fully auto valve body that applies the rear band to help the sprag, burn out in 2nd then top,

The guy gave it the beans in first before shifting. I'm pretty sure it was in top when it let go. Initially the guy said it was about 4500rpm.

although i know it is definatlely the gearbox that blew im still a bit worried about why the engine will not start. turns over on the key fine with no obvious noises but will not fire.
i cant select park so im turning it over in neutrel does this matter
any ideas appreciated

cheers
nick

IF the motor does not crank, earth the starter relay out. Damage to the box may have stopped the inhibitor switch working.