Mopar Muscle Association UK

Hi, my car went in for its MOT and failed, one of the issues is that dreaded steering box, i was going to take it out myself to have rebuilt prior to MOT'ing. Dave from this club was kind enough to give detailed instruction on this but lack of time and tools stopped this from happening. a mechanic has dismantled and given me the box today to send off to have rebuilt but the company i was going to use is based in Rochdale (DNR Componant ltd) and originally i was going to post it but due to the current postal situation and the rarity of the item in case it goes missing, i would like to find somewhere closer where i could deliver it myself. can anyone recommend a company within reason of Bedfordshire to rebuild my Box. Also i need to have my O/S and N/S sill welded as corroded, rather than patch, i would like to replace, does anyone have these laying spare in their shed that i can buy, the brass looking pipes (2) coming out of the oil filter housing into the block is kinked and is restricting flow, these need changing, where can i get these from. the water leak has been traced back to the core plugs, where can i get this and service parts from( Leads/spark plugs/oil filter etc). please i need your help.

tavistock motors in amptill is the place for all you welding, chassis and body work, old school style paint and panel man there, other then that i would have done it if i was still down there.


ask for Bob Smith, resonibly priced too.

(he is my dad)

also if time span is not a probleme you could give the box to my dad and he will pass it on to me as rochdale is five minutes down the road from me.

I'm trying to remember who rebuilt our steering box a couple of months ago.... I'll post it up in the morning when I've checked. They came & collected it and delivered it when it was done. All part of the service

Here's where we got ours done for our 69 Sport Satellite:

‘Carparts’
Bury Farm,
London Lane,
Houghton Conquest,
Beds, MK45 3LR.

Tel 01234 742880.

Ours (power steering box) cost £235 fully rebuilt. 1 yr warranty.

Collection / delivery free (or included).

OK firstly

don't dispare you failed on the most fasionable things to fail on

secondly
remeber your car is basically an American 66-68 A body in all but body and trim so all of it can be fixed and usually with American parts


steering box.

what did it fail on

loose. it can be bodged to pass
ask and i'll explain

these parts from this page (not all just the relevant for how screwed ya box is, do you need seals pr seals and bearings)

http://www.jimsautoparts.com/steering_parts.htm


POWER STEERING BOX MAJOR REBUILDING SEAL KITS
Contains all seals needed to rebuild steering box; no bearings included.

SP-PS2078
62-72 All Make & Model
$ 149.95/kit

SP-PS2079
73-up All Make & Model
$ 79.95/kit


POWER STEERING BOX MAJOR REBUILDING SEAL & BEARING KIT
Contains all seals and needle bearings needed to rebuild steering box.

SP-PS2078B
62-72 All Make & Model
$ 219.95/kit

SP-PS2079B
73-Up All Make & Model
$ 139.95/kit


OTHER STEERING BOX COMPONENTS

SP-2325
O RING SEAL PKG (seals for valve where power steering hose hooks up to) 2 Piece kit

$ 34.95/pkg

SP-PS8553
Upper Power Steering Shaft SEAL (where steering shaft goes into steering box)
62-76 All Make & Model
$ 43.95 ea


now stuff in red is what i think......that probably has no real bearing on truth cos i don't know your box but point whoever is building it to that page and they can get stuff if they need to from any Mopar performance supplier..... not just Jims auto parts. In theory your local chrysler dealer should be able to order in..... but you will need part numbers and the patients of a saint....or just give them ya chassis number and watch them get a bit confused

keep in mind we in the UK are pretty good at bearings and seals JCB and landrover and london taxis all use imperial sized gear so what mopar performance sell you for 200 bucks may well be available from your local engineering/bearing supplies for little cash (or a place close to the place that rebuild ya box.) your box rebuilders will know what can be made to fit.

Sills

luckily are not complicated shapes. lower edge is flat panel the section across the door is hidden by the alluminium trim (if you have none i have 2 you can have, i'll think of a mutually pleaseing price )

patches, even huge patches are probably your best bet, and a competant bodywork man can make them.....the new stuff you can buy is just patches anyway and probably thinner than the patches a body shop will use...so unless you are lucky enough to find a complete car ready for chopping up, patch it. but make sure you get a body shop that is'nt a bunch of cowboys you want rust chopped out and a patch let in not tacked over the top

the oil filter setup will be an odd aussie one. not the same as the US one
the filter is identical but its mounting postion is not

(Kev or James or minty might chime in they have/had a aussie 318 and i dare say had differing solutions to oil filter mounting oddness)

not an issue
but a picture is worth 1000 words here...punt one up so we can see what bit looks bust

you can get replacement oil filter threaded pipe that goes between block and oil filter if it screws onto the block or a short 1 for an oil take off block which allows you to pipe the oil to a filter mounted on a filter head remotely. Any US parts place does these. more on that later

you can get remote oil filter heads to fit any filter you like.... i.e the option is there to junk the aussie thing
bolt a takeoff head to the block run rubber oil pipe from it to a remote oil filter and back.

Think automotive can help on this front
you want a mocal remote filter head and take off plate without themostat controled oil cooler take off for a v8 that has about 4 1/2 liters of oil in the sump. you don't need an unbustable Hi Pressure filter find out OEM equivelent so you can get it at halfords later

however

if you can take off the pipe .

then speedflow or Think automotive can probably make you one.

or if its brass and its out in the open and visbile there ain't nothing wrong with a standard domestic plumbing fitting. i had a 10mm olive style fitting in my fuel pipe for years with no grief

if its a specific short run of brass pipe that just fits between two things.

then you can probably get one made. TrevD on here could possibly help.

Core plugs get a chrysler 318 set of brass plugs your 318 is a 70s 318
from
US automotive or
WASP or
real steel or
hauser racing
rodley motors
A-Z of USA spares in watford (bob harmann automotive) are good guys

its the same as a US chrysler small block 318 in most areas
its not the early boat anchor

oil filter i have found that from a 1976-1986 landcrusier to be a perfect mix of weight filtering and anti flow back but again all chrysler small blocks take a filter that is identical to the orginal ford AFL1 filter also known as a Z9. If stuck a filter off a 80s volvo 740 will fit.
but may as well just get a filter from the guys you get the core plugs off

or TrevD has a supply of WIX filters that will fit at reasonable cost

Halfords do a nice set of build your own leads

but again you are going to be ok getting a set off the above suppliers

Spark plugs dunno the above suppliers will though

what does it have now?

take one with you to a proper motor factors. slap it on the bench and say hit me with 8. please. they will have a well thumbed book in the office out the back with equivalents listed

NGK yup
bosch yup
champion mmmmmm... nought wrong but they are getting a rep for being a bit crap but will do the job

you do not need anything special No irridium 3 prong platinum buttplugs, bog standard simple 60s style plugs, just check thread length is the same before putting them in, you might have got the saturday div on the counter at the motor factors...don't bother with halfords they will just say anything to get the sale.

may as well get a distributor cap while you are at it

agian small block chrysler cap for 1972 318 will do the job

Dave

I might have the spare pipes for the filter, i know I have the mount plate, cant look until next weekend but will check and Im only in Shefford so same county!

Got my remote filter housing from speedflow,moved the filter down to front drivers chassis leg,easy to get at and you dont get covered in oil when changing,dont remember being loads of money,as dave says engine /service parts readily avaliable at most american spares outlets.
may have a set of filter pipes somewhere if matt cant help ,ill look tomorrow,might find craigs sill repair panel as well

patches !!!!! bugger patches get it done proper and have a new section made.

do it right, then you aint gotta do what your doing now 3 years down the line.

stop bodging lmao


rant over ill get my coat

aaaararrgh

Don't get me wrong Pete

i don't mean patchwork quilt
welding in off cuts here there and everywhere

note the comment about not letting them just bung new metal over the old rusted bit......

i mean a proper chunk of metal profiled to the correct shape to replace in an as-new state the rusty bit. cut out throw over shoulder replace with new......

patch just used to indicate that you can't buy a full inner and outer sill panel and a rear wing filler and outer rear 1/4 skin in 1 big chunk like the factory made all you get is separate patch panels

there are no full sills and rear 1/4s inner or outer available new

its going to be single parts and probably too small...

you can get a sill end patch for in the wheel arch
a rear wing outer skin bottom half foot

and long bits of steel that are for the flat plate of the bottom of the sill.

the door aperture is nearly square section in some places....i.e nothing too complicated no nasty profiles

but why would you when they could be made here with no postage and import duty

and thicker and probably better fitting than the patch panels availble in OZ

the stuff made here would be custom for your car
and you keep only what is good
but not throw away good original metal when not warranted.

so unles he finds a chager that for some unknown reason has not rusted out in exactly the same place as everyone elses then chopping a full section from another car is not viable.

thus my use of the wrong term, i think, has given you the wrong idea about what i meant

yes patch implys weld it over the top and be damned...thats not what i mean

do forgive me....

and i hadn't spotted your offer of dad and box fix...

sounds like an excellent option

Dave

thanks Guys for the response

the car is still at the mot testing place as he agreed to do the work necessary but i will keep the number Pete provided for future work.
the issue with the steering box is it automatically steers to the right and leaks badly so i will instruct 'Carparts' (thanks Rob) to rebuild mine.
i was asked to find out if one piece sills were available but as they are not he will have to fabricate and repair.
Going of this topic slightly but does anyone have pictures of their Auss Charger with a bonnet hood/scoop.

thanks

sorry, i forgot to mention that the o/s/f upper ball joint boot split, has anyone a spare or are these universal.

Thanks

eleanor wrote:sorry, i forgot to mention that the o/s/f upper ball joint boot split, has anyone a spare or are these universal.

Thanks

That is NOT an mot fail IF it has grease nipple fitted and it is used.

Don't use jimsautoparts, not only are they expensive but they will rip you off with the shipping charges.

Rebuild kits are available for about $20 from this place.

http://www.pskits.com/

latil wrote:

eleanor wrote:sorry, i forgot to mention that the o/s/f upper ball joint boot split, has anyone a spare or are these universal.

Thanks

That is NOT an mot fail IF it has grease nipple fitted and it is used.

the tester only mentioned the above, its not failed on this but i,m thinking i might as well get this done now, saves any future issues.

What type of oil should i use for the engine and p/s.

engine oil

commer 20-50 from wilkinsons or a motor factors get the higher quality yellow plastic bottle

halfords classic car stuff 25-50 metal tin morris minor on the front


either will do the job perfectly well

if you can find it duckhams hyper

morrises in shrewsbury do a decent range as well


if it was a race motor then you may want to invest in something more expensive but unless you have a high lift cam with big strong springs frankly its not worth it

just change it every 3000 or so.

power steering

erm i have power nothing so i'm stuck

i'd guess any modern power steering oil would do the business

there ain't nout special in there


Dave