Mopar Muscle Association UK

Transmission cooler lines are seized into the casing and my book says I have to undo them to remove transmission. They are steel and route all round the engine to the rad.
Can I just cut them through, as I cant get near them with a spanner to turn them?

Can I redo them in rubber hose instead and route it round the edge of the engine bay?

Its not a show car, its my Holden but I'm sure the theories are the same.
Its a 4L60 trans mated to a 3.8 V6.

Any suggestions welcome, as I need to get this trans out and the other (hopefully better) trans fitted by end of tomorrow.

Worst case scenario maybe to cut the lines directly above the nut and use a 6 pointed socket to remove - it saves rounding off the nut, and then re-make the lines, flaring, etc.

If you cut the lines at different positions you can use rubber hose and jubilee clips to put it back together thus saving the steel lines and some money.

Hi Matt If you cut them and join with rubber hose make sure you bell the ends of the old pipe because of the pressure in the past I have seen the rubber pipe pushed off

Thanks for the fast replies, I knew I could rely on you all. I think the rubber hose option is a goodun, I cant get the trans out until I disconnect the pipes.
It also seems I cant get it out until I remove the steering rack and exhausts to get the torque converter cover out of the way to get to the flex plate bolts.
Big learning curve today, and that lovely feeling of trans fluid down the sleeve. Its a long time since I had to do a big job like this.
I see a long day tomorrow!

hi matt,

you should be able to get a straight compression joint from anyware that deals with hydraulic or air hoses, similar to what you use for plumbing, then just cut through the pipe a place the joint in after?

Matt, whats up with the box? I have a couple of new 4L60's for a V6 i need to get rid of. No one here wants them! Would need to check out part numbers though. And the "name" that will be on the top of the box (hopefully).

Roger, you have PM, I am intrigued.
I am around tomorrow daytime to speak 01462 814051

Did you swap your auto over Matt?

VGVIP wrote:Did you swap your auto over Matt?

I have started to remove the old one, got stumped with trying to get the Torque converter cover off, as the steering rack and exhausts are in the way. Spent yesterday collecting the spare boxes from Roger so I still havent got my old one out.
Its now raining as well, so sitting here looks a better option than going outside

I think the exhausts have to come off, and I am even wondering if its easier to drop the entire K member with engine and box on it and wheel it out from under the car, rather than trying to manhandle the box from underneath??

Any thoughts?

Never been near one. Want me to see if I can find someone in oz who has - you will probably have figured it out by then though.

Thanks for all the advice, I did as suggesetd and cut the lines, flared the ends and got it all back in, boy are they heavy!!
Trans now seems to want to hold in gears and not change up smoothly, I'm wondering if it is just down to old fluid and needs a filter change?
Will try that first, didnt want to put new fluid into it if it was just a bag of spanners, but it seems OK other than holding onto the gears.

MattH wrote:it seems OK other than holding onto the gears.

Matt Check your kick down cable for the correct adjustment as that will hold it in gear longer

Guy wrote:

MattH wrote:it seems OK other than holding onto the gears.

Matt Check your kick down cable for the correct adjustment as that will hold it in gear longer

Guy you were spot on!!
After a filter change (it was lovely and clean inside anyway!) it was still the same, so I checked the kick down and adjusted it, absolutely fine now.
Cheers.

I also learnt how to flare pipes and they don't leak. I've actually enjoyed doing this job now. It's just been too long since I got covered in oil and dirt lying under old cars and I forgot what fun it is.