Mopar Muscle Association UK

Need to sperate front upper balljoints from steering knuckle

rubber boots split and need MOT

book says use special tool to apply force to balljoint stud using back of lower balljoint as mount for tool
with axle stand under lower control arm to keep it tensioned against the tornsion bar

obvioulsy don't have tool

so given that the lower Control arm end is under tension of the torsion bar
whats the best way

was thinking i need to take off tie rod so as not to over stress its balljoints when the lower control arm comes down....

however Just how far will it come down?
will any torsion bar bits fall off, become unlatched etc


current planned method will be

jack up front

take off wheel
take off tie rod end from steering knuckle
take off caliper so as not to snap the brake pipe

undo upper balljoint nut
welly the steering knuckle eye with a big hammer making sure nothing or my self is anywhere under the lower control arm

and if the wind is in the right direction it comes apart

any pit falls

do i chock under the lower control arm with a pile of wood to stop it smashing down too hard.


with the Vdubs i just used to smack it hard and let the torsion bars fling the bottom arm down into the road....i was an animal then though and parts were easy to get...


Dave

suppose i could leve the nut on the last 1/2 inch of thread for the top joint
save loosing an arm or a finger????

and let it unwind on the jack......

possible??

dave

Leave the nut on then jack it up under the lca after it's cracked, think I used one of them pickle fork things and a big lump hammer, or 2 hammers banging either side simultaneously....

Hope the top BJ ain't welded in, careful of the thread.....

Blue has the correct socket for the UBJ.

If you can jack the suspension up using the UCA then a simple blow with a hammer will brake the joint loose.

In the past I have used such things as two axle stands with a pole to support the UCA when I let the jack down from under the LCA. Leave the nut on. Bang with the hammer and off it will pop.

If you have a big pickle fork then use that but it is the hammering that will bring it off if it is under tension.

Support car under frame rail

Undo upper balljoint nut just a couple of turns

Crack balljoint loose with hammer or pickle fork

Release all tension on torsion bar using adjuster

Remove balljoint nut completely.

If you just need the mot and the JOINT HAS A GREASE NIPPLE,you don't need the rubber boot to pass the test. Sealed joints are a different matter.
Obviously it'll need to be done at some point,but don't panic just for the test.

ah grease nipple in position....options

but reluctant to Bananarama! as this palce has been very good about my oozing rear axle seals......

well the fact that my rear axle and the back of my wheels appear power washed and spotless each year........

they aint daft

cheers fellas

Dave

Agree totally with Matt on that one Dave, release all the tension on the torsion bar, saves any chance of injury and doe'snt make the joint split any easier, a few sharp raps with a lump hammer will easy see it falling away mate. Oh, you're gonna get all the skin taken off yer knuckles.......................thats just ball joint ettiquette

Yes sorry. I forgot to mention taking the tension off the torsion bar.

The weight of the knuckle and LCA alone is enough.

latil wrote:If you just need the mot and the JOINT HAS A GREASE NIPPLE,you don't need the rubber boot to pass the test. Sealed joints are a different matter.
Obviously it'll need to be done at some point,but don't panic just for the test.

ANY ball joint with a split or missing boot passes the MOT today, different story from Jan next year though.

Hi Dave.

When I replaced my power steering box I decided to get a tool kit for rebuilding the front end as I figure it is on the cards.

All I have used so far is the clamp to fix to the torsion bar to knock it out.
So I can not say for sure that the rest of the kit is exactly right for our ball joints etc. but I am hopeful.

Anyway, what I am trying to say is you are welcome to use it.
Only thing I ask is that it is returned in a month or so when my CM LCAs arrive from Oz. (I believe the CM had stronger LCAs and have the sway bar mount I am after so I had some scrounged up and put on a boat).

If you are interested just let me know.
My kit has the same parts as this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AM-Pro-T ... veQ5fTools

Has this socket
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... highlight=

oooh that top ball joint tool sounds nifty

can i borrow

saves me undoing the torsion bar adjuster.

i'll just rest the hub on a stand....


where are you again

PM me

Dave

I have just the upper ball joint socket Dave if you ever need it .

Cheers

Matt

Can you buy the rubber boots because they dont last 5 minutes, they'd be better if they had a fastener like the modern ones.
I use a pickle fork if worn out, or a bj separator if still good.
Mick

well progress is good

My kids had a full programme of Birthday parties this weekend

3 on saturday

so after doing my duty at 2 of them
fed some goats stroked a pig, eat some frazzles and a limp sandwich etc

dumped emma with her mum for the last party of the day and Daniel and I set off into deepest darkest Surrey to visit Steve (VGVIP)
great fun driving through very big puddles and only 1 uncapped road to navigate.

good to see ya mate
borrowed his set of A body suspension tools...
Daniel made use of his facilities (he's 3 so any oportunity to use someone elses toilet is a high point in his day)
got back
made tea
kids to bed
off down to the garage
looked at it
cut my head on the edge of the numberplate
grazed my elbow
had a fag

jacked it all up
pulled out split pin
took off caliper
jack under hub
undid castle nut
and the whole just come off in my hands officer....honest
and worrying

checked eye in knuckle for cracks
check taper of joint for galling or signs of ware due to it staying still and the nuckle just swinging round it. not the case in fact going by the twisted boot not the case
Balljoint still nice and tight
all good
just a case of the last big rubber and plastic balljoint cover being so hard when fitted that the nip-up of the nut must not have been as tight as it could have been. NO it wasn't me

will be checking the the other side

packed steve's tools away
pulled off boot

4 mm cut in it

measured it up

and went on ebay and made a purchase

if you want to do it right
i guess you buy some from here

http://www.suspension.com/bjb.htm

but me, being the adventureous type, and trying to avoid paying for SORN went for these instead

in large

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SLIDE-A-BOOT-SMAL ... 27bb83ea05

if they fit i'll let you know
if they don't i'll get some extra large

Dave