Im squeezing but nothing coming out her nipples

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Aug 22, 11 9:29 pm

I have a 68 charger with drums all round no servo
I try ed to bleed brakes to day front went fine

i opened the rear nipples pumping nothing coming out

I open the pipe from the master cylinder and press pedal and fluid came out.

I traced the pipe to a valve block screwed to the front rail.(with a electrical connector brake test light ??)

There is also a split er (t valve) on the back axle.

My question is as all brake pipes are so tight i will have to cut them to be able to test which valve block is faulty.

Which one do we think is block jammed etc

(you think a charger has bad brakes i been driving round with only front drums no servo)

Jules · Post by **Jules** » Mon Aug 22, 11 10:16 pm

Will, I've just done my one's this weekend funny enough.
Had same problem but with the fronts.
Master cylinder was shot for me.
Luckily I had a spare

Just WD40 the ends of the pipes to the wheel cylinders before you try and turn the ends. If the break, well, hey, you were going to cut them anyway.
Remember too that they're imperial not metric. If they round off you'll probably need to use mole grips

Are you getting a "full load" from the master cylinder when you press the pedal (without the pipe attached)? I wasn't hence why I ask. The rears were bleeding, but very minimal. Replacement master cylinder sorted it out.

The electrical connection on the block on the front rail gives a warning light if your foot goes too far down / no brakes.
It lights up the "brake" light left side of the dash. Think it's the same light when you apply the park brake.

My

..... if the shoes are good, replace the master and wheel cylinders and the brake hoses. You dont know how old the rubbers inside the cylinders are, and a 2 ton car with no brakes is abit hard to pull up to a stop safely.

Better to be safe than sorry mate, especially for the sake of a 1er

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Mon Aug 22, 11 10:26 pm

Did you start bleeding them at the back of the car?

Sequence should be furthest wheel away from the master cylinder first, ending with wheel closest to the master cylinder.

If it's just the rear nipples that are causing the problem, bleed the rear brakes from the flexi pipe connection to the wheel

hope this helps

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Aug 22, 11 10:29 pm

I have had the rear hose collapse internally so no fluid would come out - even with the motor running and the bleed nipples open!

On a car such as yours with unknown history I would be checking all the brake pipes and throwing all the flexi's away to be sure.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Mon Aug 22, 11 10:34 pm

Pete wrote:I have had the rear hose collapse internally so no fluid would come out - even with the motor running and the bleed nipples open!

On a car such as yours with unknown history I would be checking all the brake pipes and throwing all the flexi's away to be sure.

Had the same thing on the Road Runner, rear hose was blocked solid.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Aug 22, 11 10:35 pm

when i press the peddle i get full pressure out the master cylinder.
Looks like master is ok

I have tryed the WD40 and a bit of heat but and going to chew the pipe ends if i go anymore.

The brake cylinder in the drums look new ish.

My red light it on all the time and when i press the brakes really hard it goes out

.

Look like it must be this block( i take it it control brake bias from front to rear with a pre set bias not ajustable)

Would normal go for it and replace all the parts safety first and all that but im working on the street with a bottle jack and just trying to get it to drive back to Germany in a week.can then rip this car apart and make her fast

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Aug 22, 11 10:41 pm

Mick70RR wrote:
Pete wrote:I have had the rear hose collapse internally so no fluid would come out - even with the motor running and the bleed nipples open!

On a car such as yours with unknown history I would be checking all the brake pipes and throwing all the flexi's away to be sure.
Had the same thing on the Road Runner, rear hose was blocked solid.

I take it you mean ( there is a metal pipe that goes all the way to the rear of the car then a rubber flex hose to the T piece bolted on the axle)

Its this rubber flex hose ?????

Jules · Post by **Jules** » Mon Aug 22, 11 10:55 pm

autofetish wrote: Its this rubber flex hose ?????

Yes mate, that should be the only flexi at the rear

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Aug 22, 11 11:09 pm

thanks will try to get some new one from some ware

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Aug 22, 11 11:33 pm

Will the brass block you mentioned attached to the drivers chassis side is a safety device there is a floating spool in the block with springs at each end if you have a brake fail then the spool pops to one side and will give a brake on the opposite end of the car.
If the spool is on one side of the block it may cause your problem.
Bear in mind that the Master cylinder is in fact two, the front section is the rear brakes the rear the front.
I have a good spare block if you want it.
Bob

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Aug 22, 11 11:36 pm

Yes please

You have a PM

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Tue Aug 23, 11 6:52 am

You may have a leak in the back section of your brakes so the safety valve(brass block) is turning off the rear and only allowing the front to work.
Try swapping the front and rear brake feed pipe on the brass block and if the fronts work through the rear part of the brass block you will know its not the brass block but in fact a leak in the rear system.

You can also bypass the brass block just to see if you have a leak in the rear system but don't drive without the safety valve.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Aug 23, 11 7:02 am

Good idea Anton will try that.

Up there for think down there for dancing

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Aug 23, 11 8:56 am

Ok As pete said about the rear flexi thats quite common.

But I'm with Knight charger on the spool in the valve these get stuck sometimes and block of the rears or fronts depening on which you have bleed first as already pointed out it should be the farthest first!

ALSO I hardly ever pump brakes to bleed them just leave them drip on there own, the reason is because the master cylinder will have rust inside at a point where the piston dosn't normaly travel and if you pass this point you may damage the seals, and cause the spool to move across and stick like your with all the presser behind it.

So you need to get the spool back in the middle either with a brake fluid pump that will push pressure back up through the rear brake nipple or flexi or on the G.M cars the is a small metal pin on the end of the brass valve that you can pull or push.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Aug 23, 11 8:58 am

It will most likely be that rear flexy.

Cut the pipes flush with the fittings and use a socket to remove them. That way you can re-use any that have not rounded off and if the pipes are OK internally you can re-use the pipes.

Chances are you will need new pipes (and a flare tool) anyway though.