Mopar Muscle Association UK

God i hate bleedin bleedin brakes.

Whats the right order to do it?

It's a completely new system, new m/cyl, slaves, etc.
New parking brake cables, newly assembled rear drums.
Disc front, linelok, bias adjuster.

Please help!

Hey db

I usually bleed the master cylinder first off the car and the once there is no air left I put it back on the car and the start at the wheel the furthest from the cylinder and the work the next one until you bleed the one that is closest and there repeat the procedure till all the air is out and you have a nice solid pedal. If you have vac assist brakes it works better with engine running as it make pushing the pedal easier.

If you are on you own you can reverse bleed the brakes buy using a large syringe and forcing the fluid from the caliper to the master cylinder as the doesn't allow air in it can be alot quicker.

I would open all the fancy things eg blais valve and line lock.

I would then open all the valves and fill with brake fluid.

Wait till it comings dripping out

Front will drip first then close

Might have to wait a night till rear comes (if you have time)

Then start bleeding

Open one rear valve longest distance from master.

Have your lovely assistance pump the pedal is a slow uniform way.

Might have to go for a PUMP DOWN - PEDAL ON FLOOR- HOLD. Then lock nipple

Pedal up

Then nipple open then repeat.

Work you way from longest to shortest pipe eg rears then fronts

I always found a night with the rear nipples open work well on other cars.

Its not a 2 min job so take your time and in joy

remember she is do all the pumping

your laying on your back just playing with the nipples

Thanks

Anton- i have neither a servo or an engine at the mo. Nor an assistant

Will- I like the sound of the gravity method

What about setting up the drums- do i bleed first or adjust the parking brake cables first?

db wrote:Thanks



What about setting up the drums- do i bleed first or adjust the parking brake cables first?

It should not make any odds which one is first

Make sure drums are on with all shoes ect

make sure parking brake is OFF.


Also use a small piece of clear pipe that goes on the nipplel when bleeding.

This will

A. stop any air black flowing into the system when you stop the pump and tighten.

B. allow you to see air bubbles coming out.

When the bubbles stop your done.

(Clear pipe fish tank shop Front and rear nippel are diffrent size)

Get pipe thats long to go into a clean bottle then you can re use the brake fliud


I always found that ones i bleeded them the pedal was still crap.

I waited one or two days and gave it a final bleed and more air would come. Making the pedal firmer.


Might just be me

Brakes are spot on now, thanks for the pointers guys.
I spent ages failing to bleed the m/cyl first. I eventually worked out that the rod from the pedal was too long, it preventing the cylinder from refilling with fluid. Once i fixed this i had no problem!
I made a bleeding tube by blocking the end of a pipe and making a razor cut in it to make a one way valve. I bled in sections, first to the bias valve beneath the seat, then to the T on the rear axle, then each rear wheel. The fronts i went straight for the calipers, they have two bleed nipples on each so i started at the furthest.
Each time i wanted to close a bleed point, i held the pedal down with a handy steel slab. Worked brilliantly