Mopar Muscle Association UK

Before I have to remove hub and disc and knock one stud out. Anyone know the exact measurements of the Aussie front wheel studs?
7/16 unf.... But what length?
Any different knurl types (length of knurl on shank)?

Loooonnng
72mm

And look to pass through the disk then the knurl seats in the hub.

Any thoughts on reusing studs that have been driven out?

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/sunsho ... ail&p=5068

looked in manual ,cant see anything.Got a old disk steve if you want to knock a stud out.

dont remember them being that long,has been a few years since i changed them though,i did reuse mine

Hi Terry.
I looked in mine too.
Diagram does not even show if they seat in the hub.
Is your disc still attached to a hub?
May take you up on the offer. Will be easier than taking it off the VG to knock one out then put the hub back on while I get a set.

Reuse, may be the way to go.
Was not sure if it may lead to trouble later if I could just pickup some cheap local equivalents.

This looks a different stud again, appears to have the knurl to seat in the disc rather than the hub.

Maybe it does not matter where the knurl seats as long as the disk, hub and wheel are pulled tight when nuts are on and the knurl seats well to stop the stud spinning.

Any thoughts or experience?


Same application as the one above.
http://www.valiantspares.com.au/wheel-s ... d-nut.html

differing lengths for alloy ROH or GKN Sankey benson option W35 wheels...jelly bean mags. OR plain steels i think


Dave

Dave999 wrote:differing lengths for alloy ROH or GKN Sankey benson option W35 wheels...jelly bean mags. OR plain steels i think


Dave

Ah, that makes sense now. re the 72mm.

I am left wondering about the spline (knurl - poor choice of word earlier) and shank length and diameter now.

You can see the first one has the spline placed to pass through the disk but seat in the hub (disk is mounted behind the hub). The shank seems to be larger diameter between the spline and head.

The second one has the spline closer to the head of the stud so it seats inside the disk. The rest of the shank would have to be correct diameter to seat inside the hub and stop movement.
Maybe the disk has a larger diameter hole than the hub.

Guess I wont know for sure until I remove mine.
Job for Saturday - no rain for a change!

well basically all the spline does is stop you knocking the stud back as you mount the wheel

plenty rotors just float between hub and wheel until nipped down on modern cars

think you will find that the hub and rotor are a pain to split with or without studs

so splinage aint an issue as long as there are some

i'd just reuse what you have, if you come a cropper i have 2 scrap rotors on hubs

way to thin to be of use but they have studs....i'd give you some from the side of the car that didn't hit the tree at 60mph

Dave

Spline - And stop stud spinning I would think.

I wont be worried about the old discs they should come apart with a few lumps of wood and a decent knock from an "American screwdriver".

Was more worried about being a stud short if I damage one when driving them out and having to re assemble less a stud to move the car around only to have to pull it apart again to fit a stud.

Time is in short supply now days so trying to have everything at hand.

Thanks

spline" that second pic looked like the ones,i remember punching them out and punching them back in again,wheels have not fallen off yet,except for when i overtighten my nearside wheel bearing but we wont go into that now
Got an old disk off the car steve if you want a practise run

Thanks Terry.
I'll text you shortly to see if you are about this arvo or in the morning and I'll come and collect it.

I would also be interested in sizing up the hub/disk against mine as it may be an option in the distant future to go to the larger pcd by a hub swap and re-drill the disc.
I suspect that the only difference between my new discs and yours will be where the holes are drilled. Reading below chart there may have been a small amount of extra machining. 1mm
Have an idea that if there is a set of hubs at a place a couple of hours to the north of here for a reasonable price I may get them to put in the shed.

Extract from the DBA catalogue attached.

Note the minor difference between DBA 202 & DBA 204

New rotors fitted on Saturday between mowing grass and assembling a swing.
Good to finally be able to spend a bit of time working outside without all the liquid sunshine we have been having!

Thanks Terry for the loan of your parts, will return them all including the studs, did not damage any of yours or mine.

Need to check for runout of the mounted rotors then rebuild my hydraulics. Waiting on parts and time.
After the other bleed screw also broke (both calipers) I am expecting to have trouble undoing the flexi brake lines from the hard line to replace. So have started a process of soaking the joints in WD40 in the hope that it helps.


A few observations:

- rotors easily removed from hub.

- My new rotors, made by RDA (Rotors and Drums Australia). Measured to be the same dimensions as the DBA specs above.

- Old rotors (both my VG and Terry's VH?) have a smaller diameter of roughly 275mm. Original factory fitted rotors I suspect. Maybe the later models VJ onward had larger rotors than the ones I have seen.
The reason I think this is because the outside pad on my Girlock calipers actually passed the outside diameter of my original rotors but will not on my new ones. Girlock calipers were fitted to VJ I think? Were VG & VH got the same Girling caliper with the slider pins.

- The studs (both Terry's and mine) are shorter versions of the first picture above. The shank has a larger diameter closer to the head then is reduced for the second half of the shank where the spline is located.
The rotors have a larger diameter hole than the hub.

- My new rotors could be re drilled for the larger pcd if need be in future. Meaning it would only require re drilling the rotors and change of or re drill hubs to go to the larger pcd on the front.

think VG VH got same calipers as 65 66 mustang

The lines from the car to the caliper on mine looked awful
however if you get a set of imperial brake line spaners and hold the bit that kinda bolts it onto the wedge clip and bracket rock steady
you can undo the pipe with little or no detriment to the hardline and mounting.

Dave