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Gearbox condition
Posted: Thu Jul 12, 12 6:13 pm
by 1stpop
Hello there I have a 727 with griner valve body .
It's meant to have had a b-m kit put in it new clutches etc . It's had a small oil leak from trans brake pulled it apart and in the bottom of the sump there is quite a bit of slunge and what looks like fine metal partials . Also bang in the middle of sump is a pile of something ?? It's done about 3 miles

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 12 6:50 pm
by Pete
I'm not an expert but the words "Start again" spring to mind. Sorry.
That also goes for all the trans cooler lines which need to be clean and also the Torque Convertor, which will probably need to be cut open and cleaned.
Duncan (Cannonball) or Blue will be able to advise..............
Posted: Thu Jul 12, 12 7:31 pm
by TyreFryer
3 miles!?! Did you have it built at the same place that built your engine?
Posted: Thu Jul 12, 12 8:59 pm
by 1stpop
See it maybe ok , but a wee bit nervous after the state of the engine . And I couldn't possibly comment on who did it .

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 12 9:11 pm
by Cannonball
1stpop wrote:See it maybe ok , but a wee bit nervous after the state of the engine . And I couldn't possibly comment on who did it .

a major problem amongst people that profess to be able to build transmissions is the cleaning anyone can fit new clutch plates and seals but plenty do not completly strip the full transmission and valve body and clean it to as new condition before resembly,
i can Bananarama! building a trans in a day if i have to but it will take me 4-5 hrs to clean it all first and then to strip clean rebuild a valve body another 3-4 hrs
if not stuck valves crud floating around in the fluid etc etc,
dont get me wrong i have had failures very often due to a part breakage or similar but i try to give it the very best chance in the first place,
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 8:46 am
by Dave-R
There is no way that was built correctly.
To do it right you have to strip the box down to a bare case anyway. To fit new seals and get the correct clearences on each sub-assembly, with correct thickness washers and clips, you have to pull each sub-assembly apart.
A transmission is actually a very rewarding thing to rebuild. I'm not nearly as good as Duncan so I have to take my time over two weekends and a few hours during the week.
It is probably the most interesting and rewarding job you can do on a car. So why anyone would take short cuts is beyond me.
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 8:53 am
by autofetish
I also brought abox off eurodragster for 200 quid was fitted in a race car but was rebuilt 4 years ago and used for racing. My sump pan look the same.
I could never build a gearbox i think im along way off that.
I have cleaned everything i can and convertor.
Changed filter and fuilds and will give it a go.
If it goes bang or dont work. I will then look at having it rebult.
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 9:06 am
by Ivor
Dave wrote:There is no way that was built correctly.
To do it right you have to strip the box down to a bare case anyway. To fit new seals and get the correct clearences on each sub-assembly, with correct thickness washers and clips, you have to pull each sub-assembly apart.
A transmission is actually a very rewarding thing to rebuild. I'm not nearly as good as Duncan so I have to take my time over two weekends and a few hours during the week.
It is probably the most interesting and rewarding job you can do on a car. So why anyone would take short cuts is beyond me.
Dave's absolutely right, it's one of the most satisfying jobs to do, but unless your a pro it can take a very long time, that's why pro rebuilds are not cheap.
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 10:04 am
by DaveBishop
When I did my city and guilds in auto boxes the teacher went on and on about cleaning it was the most important part in the rebuild. It takes longer to clean a gearbox than rebuild it. I must say though that I have rebuilt a box a the pod and it run for years after with no problems and I have rebuilt a chevy box in a field covered in mud and that went on for years after. Just lucky I gess
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 10:13 am
by VGVIP
Yep agree the cleaning is very important.
You would be surprised how much muck from friction material and what looks to me like very fine aluminium particles settles in the valve body in a used box that looks clean inside the pan and around in inside of the case.
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... hlight=904
Building one for the road I would not hesitate again, if it were serious performance or race I would defiantly want it done by someone who 'KNOWS' or at very least their guidance.
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 11:01 am
by 1stpop
VGVIP wrote:
Building one for the road I would not hesitate again, if it were serious performance or race I would defiantly want it done by someone who 'KNOWS' or at very least their guidance.
Yep so did I . Someone may have a bit of explaining to do if there is anything wrong in the box.
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 11:06 am
by latil
I think we really should know who bodged your engine and trans so that no one else gets caught out. You could always PM those of us that would like to know.
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 11:07 am
by Dave-R
It is not that unusual to have a little friction material in the bottom of the sump after they have bedded in a bit after a rebuild.
But only after many more miles than that and a good few hard passes up the strip or your local public "test track".
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 11:25 am
by Jon Connolly
Darren
I hope you get all these issues sorted out soon ... it would be a great shame if your Mopar experiences all turn out to be negative
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 12 11:32 am
by 1stpop
I really wish I'd brought a Chevy . I know it's probably a bad word around here. But the only person local I found to help is a c!?k