Mopar Muscle Association UK

Does anyone know of a place in England that keeps caliper O rings for wilwoods in stock ?
Mick

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php? ... 9cd7dm9q45

Worth a call ??

Thanks Jon, They dont list the part no seals but it doesn't mean to say they are different size, i will take one off tomorrow, measure them and give them a call.
Brakes are binding like a bitch. LOL
Mick

Mick try Jon Webster http://www.webster-race-engineering.co.uk/ or Andy Robinson http://www.robinson-race-cars.co.uk/

Thanks Rob, the rally place that Jon recommended had them, so i've ordered them today, i hope it cures the brake drag, the pistons look ok.
Mick

What master cylinder are you using & do you have residual pressure valves?

My understanding on residual pressures valves, is that there not needed in regular application, Unless Mick has relocated his master cylinder, below the line of the callipers

It isn't the original, iit's the slim steel one with the plastic reservoirs. It looks a newer style than the original. I ordered the alloy one from stateside but they cocked the order up and sent me the steel one but it looks like the alloy one.
Assuming it's newer, it would be for disc brakes anyway. How would i know, if it's got a residual valve ?
I cracked open the line today before i stripped the calipers and the discs were still dragging.
Mick

mopar_mark wrote:My understanding on residual pressures valves, is that there not needed in regular application, Unless Mick has relocated his master cylinder, below the line of the callipers

That's correct for disc brake applications, drumbrakes have one to keep a bit of pressure on the seals, because they use umbrella seals rather than "O" rings they need them. Drums also have return springs on the shoes which is why a 10 psi residual pressure valve is used with drums & a 2 psi one with discs, which as you say Mark is generally only used where the master cylinder is below the height of the calipers & stops the fluid syphoning back.

Mick, if your m/cyl is designed for a disc/drum combo it will have a residual pressure valve built into the outlet, although I've just tried to find a pic & it would appear that Chrysler stopped using this in the early 70's so as you have the later style m/cyl that should eliominate that as the cause. Also as you have releassed the pressure in the line, it sounds like the pistons are binding, I'm sure you'll find the problem when you tear them down.

Well, bought new seals and installed, cleaned all the pistons up and the calipers inside, put it all back together but still dragging, the pass side is a lot better, the drivers side inot quite so good, the old brakes where sticking, turning them with the wheel on, the drivers side is similar, the pass side feels better, i think. Bloody annoying. If the driver's side was as good as the pass side i'd be content. Also the open wheel nuts i've got dont quite fit the wheels.
The old type metal cylinder and the newer one, the new one is the same as the alloy one in the pic but is steel.
Mick