Mopar Muscle Association UK

My Dart has recently decided to not pull cleanly theoughout the rev range.
I changed main jets from 66 to 68 (Holley 600vac sec) to get a richer plug colour. Seemed fine initially but not now.
Plugs are all fresh and clean. Could this fault be ignition rather than carb. Getting tricky to know what to do next?

temporarily short out the ballast resistor and see how it runs.

Dave, sorry to seem dumb but, how do i short out the ballast resistor?
Also, just wacked it up the road. Sems to run cleaner 3,000rpm plus. Doesnt like pulling around town.

Me name's Kev.

I had a misfire at about 3500+. It turned out to be a dodgey ballast. Doesn't sound like your problem. Is the idle circuit set up right? And is your timing spot on (advance working ok? etc.)

Sorry Kev, its a teaching thing. Get the name wrong but, remember the face! As for the carb I adjusted in line line with MMA advice i.e no vac at idle and it ran well. After upping the main jet it also seemed fine. Only started to choke a bit in the last few days even though i'd made no other adjustments. Would a worn carb be a cause of the problem or a blown power valve?

Steve, I know! The irony is that I re-routed the leads away from the manifolds as I thought they may get too hot. I suspect a drain on the ignition leads. The plugs are new and good. the only thing I noted is that the when pulling the lead caps off, the inner piece that connects to top of plugs stays on the plug capon a couple of leads. The leads (Accel 8mm type) push back on firmly. Could this be the prob?

erm, yes....

Are you running points or electronic? if points, the points are quite probably out of adjustment. V8's munch points!

OK boys, before you take the proverbial, the plug caps leads are a tight fit connection in all cases. They have to be tugged off. my question, dumb tho'it sounds is whether there could be a lack of contact that it not obvious. i'm trying to establish cause and effect. The leads have always been like this but, the problem is recent. will, its electronic.

Check the air gap between the rotor and pickup in the disrtibutor , also check for wear causing the gap to change . also check that the wires are tight on the coil ( this caused me a lot of hassle a few weeks back)

Thanks, Trev. the dizzy cap is new but, i will check the rotar. All wires to the coil are firm.

Miles
Surely giving things a damn gud check over (timing, carb set up & linkages, condition on all elec. contacts & wiring etc), testing and shorting componants and replacing smaller items (leads, plugs, rotors, condensors, coils, contacts, dizzy cap, ballast resistors etc) is the way to go first.
If you still have a major problem, thats when advice is needed.
From what you say most of this is first few pages of a workshop manual stuff. CHECK EVERYTHING IS HOW IT SHOULD BE, involve a mate if you have to and spend an evening going right through it. Excercise extreme patience when your doing so! 8)

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"I am less and less interested in what is or isnt possible"!