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'70 Super Bee
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 13 10:03 pm
by Trigger_Andy
Well the Bee arrives in Oslo on the 30th of this month. Really looking to getting my hands on it. I'm renting garage space on a local farm, workshop with lighting and electricity and room to work on both the Mustang and the Bee for 100 quid a month.
Just wonder what peoples thoughts are regarding the Engine? Keep the 383 or buy a 440 for it? Also, what Diffs do these cars usually come with?
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 13 10:07 pm
by MilesnMiles
Don't know the answers Andy, but it's proper stuff. I wouldn't be chucking parts away just yet. Super B = Sought after basted

Posted: Thu Nov 07, 13 10:11 pm
by Trigger_Andy
No no, no parts will be getting dumped, but if I'm gonna have an Engine refreshed/worked on would I be better sourcing a good 440 and moth labelling the 383 or just get the 383 done?
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 13 10:16 pm
by MilesnMiles
I see, bit like me hopping up my 340 but ensuring that all standard parts are mothballed.
Posted: Fri Nov 08, 13 8:13 am
by Black Country Nailer
£100 a month, you lucky B****!
My 70 Superbee has 3.23 open diff which according to Tony O is the most common. Had my 383 rebuilt by Dave B, plenty good enough, has edelbrock torker inlet, basic headers, erson cam (didn't know that until Dave dismantled the engine, it was almost new so no point changing) and electronic ignition. Only has carter 600 carb so maybe needs something bigger. Could have bought a 440 engine, but I only use it on road and it's plenty quick enough for me. Dyno'd at over 300 BHP at the wheels.
Car at this time in pieces. Bodywork issues (understatement, it leaks like a sieve!) and electrical problems, mainly caused by the bulkhead disconnect burning out. Hope to be back on the road next spring.
Good luck with the restoration.
Posted: Fri Nov 08, 13 8:28 am
by Trigger_Andy
Thanks for the info Nailer. You should post up your progress, Id be (and Im sure many others) would be very interested in the build up.
Out of interest what kind of cost are we talking about for the work you had done? Id have to send the engine over from Norway for the work so it might be cheaper and easier to buy a 440 in the UK and have the work done then ship it over to Norway.
Posted: Fri Nov 08, 13 9:21 am
by MilesnMiles
Andy, what about the guys at Six Pack Speedshop or Moper.De in Germany. would that make shipping easier or be offset by high labour charges?
Posted: Fri Nov 08, 13 9:25 am
by Trigger_Andy
Hmmmm, good point but I expect they will be a good bit more expensive than getting one soured and built in the UK. Otherwise Id just get one here in Norway. Shipping from the Uk to Norway would be the same as shipping from Germany to the UK.
Posted: Sat Nov 09, 13 12:52 pm
by Pete_B
Depends what your planing Andy, if you want a balls out race car find a 400 block and build that, i know its not original but from what i hear its the best way to go, if not i'd personally keep it original a 383 built well is plenty for the road.
Posted: Sat Nov 09, 13 5:50 pm
by TW71
There are some interesting 383 stroker kits available now, 450ci onwards, maybe worth it, plus some fresh alloy heads?
Tim

Posted: Sat Nov 09, 13 6:14 pm
by sublimemike
What's the import duty / VAT taxes like for you to import any parts from the states to Norway Andy?
Posted: Sat Nov 09, 13 7:27 pm
by Trigger_Andy
Thanks for the replies guys.
Stroker kit is a good idea Tim but I think Id wanna keep the engine as is. Thats if its original and if numbers matchig is relevent on a car like this?
Pete, Im not interested really interested in Racing and Im just wanting the car for the Street.
Mike, Its basically the same as UK but instead of 20% its 25%, nice huh?

Just as well the pays so good here,lol.
Posted: Sat Nov 09, 13 7:41 pm
by MilesnMiles
Andy, it's a Super Bee! Matching numbers is a real deal breaker for sought after cars

Posted: Sun Nov 10, 13 1:05 am
by Pete
I would lay up the original motor and put a 400 or 440 in it...400 gives you more space....
Posted: Sun Nov 10, 13 6:54 pm
by R.RUNNER