Mopar Muscle Association UK

Need to take the gearbox out my 72 B body to give to Dunc at the Euronats....Never done it before and looking for ANY hints and tips do/dont's etc before I totally balls it up!!!!(which is usually the case!!).......I dont think there's any need to remove the bell housing? Just the box??

Yep if it's goin back in there shortly then undo the 4 bellhousing bolts and pull it out.
Make sure you support the motor properly.
Use a trans or at least a floor jack to support the box, don't let it drop down with the input shaft still into the clutch or you could easy damage the shaft or the centre plate.
Oh and dont forget to drain the oil, gear oil stinks and you don't want it all over the floor or yourself
All depends how the reverse shift rod is routed but aside from removing the gear lever you may be able to drop the box without removing the shifer mechanism and linkage.
Trans crossmember just drops down easily but you may have to drop your exhaust to do so.
I'm just about to whip the A833 out of my Chally to fit a McLeod clutch for the Nats and I expect that to take an evening to complete, not hard at all

It's long, but if you have the time scan through my Belve thread. My 833 has been in and out a few times...

Cheers Ade appreciated db, yes mate have read it and re read it! Very impressive work indeed!!!

small trolley jack under rear of engine or rest it on a block of wood on the steering crossbar

axle stands on high lift under front chassis rails before they kick up towards the bulkhead

3 tonne jack (with big lifting plate)


jack up to base of trans from front of car

ratchet strap it onto the the jack. you do not want it falling off onto concrete or your hand

undo rear mount and cross bar
undo 4 box to bell housing bolts

back and down pull out forwards


front of car obvioulsy needs to be box + jack height + a bit


if you leave the bell housing on the motor you can probably get away without dismantling the clutch Z bar. it will however be the lmiting factor for drooping the engine down and you don't want to bend it


if you need to, undo the adjuster rod and take it off then undo the end on the bell housing (by taking off the stud and mounting

pull down the stud mount and it will come out of the tube with a seal and 2 plastic shells

the other end wont come off due to the spring clip through the tube holding the shells at that end in place.

stuff it all back with new grease the same way it came out a bit later.

putting it back

if you have not disturbed the clutch plate your good to go

if you have you will need to align it or get it moderatley in the middle

mount the box up best you can

use longer bolts

do the back end up

build the clutch mechanism

stamp the clutch a few times to get it all centred and keep doing up the bolts until it jiggles on of it own accord. no force used really you don't want to push the middle out of your clutch plate or bruise the edge of the pilot bearing. just nip it up smidge by smidge to get the box and bell aligned and it will go into the back of the pilot beaing in the crank no probs


Dave



Dave

Nobbys-nails wrote:Cheers Ade appreciated db, yes mate have read it and re read it! Very impressive work indeed!!!

Ha ha, dunno about impressive... I like to think I made all the mistakes so others won't have to

Cheers Dave........I also read your thread and Bananarama! myself laughing when you wrote that you'd only dropped it on yourself once!!! Mmmm doesn't seem so funny now I'm doing it!! Thanks again.