Mopar Muscle Association UK

Well

I worked until 1am the other night to get mu car back together, ready for a rolling road set-up of the carb the following morning.

Unfortunately I had a couple of last minute problems, car not charging, and temp gauge not working.

Both fixed with an hour or so the next morning, amazing what a clear head can do, but I missed my rolling road slot!

I seem to have a problem with the car dieing/stalling on idle after a while, or sometimes in drive.

I have tried adjusting the timing back and forth a little, and very small adjustments of the throttle idles screw.

I went from point and condenser with standard coil to Pertronicx igniter 2 and Flame-thrower coil.

On the old system the car was running relatively well, save for the odd misfire.

So I am guessing that I have a much stronger spark, and timing needs to be finessed.

I'm a bit daunted with turning mixture screws, I'm worried I'll only make it worse!

It would be nice to get it to the stage where I can drive it reliably and then take it to the rolling road to measure AFR under load...

Does anyone have any advice/rules of thumb, or a simple document that would help me adjust it?

Have a read of this manual.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mis ... manual.pdf

The AFB carb is very similar to the newer Edelbrock carbs so it should help.

Ah, this rings a bell as Ive just had a similar problem.

I think the Carter has metering rods the same as the edelbrock carbs (Edelbrocks are basically a copy of the Carters). Make sure she isn't flooding (like my Polara was). One of my metering rods was stuck in the wide open throttle position so was running very rich and floodind. They are a piece of pi55 to clean and takes about 5 mins to do.

Loosen the little covers on the top of the carb. If they start to lift as you unscrew then you know the metering rods are free to move. If you loosen them and the covers don't lift, they are probably stuck. If that's the case, loosen the cover, use a magnet to lift the cover up and then spin it out of the way. Very carefuly use tweezers to withdraw the metering rod and spring. They are fragile so be careful. Gently clean them with brasso but don't rub too hard as you can change the spec of the rod if you start buffing too hard.

While they are out, spray carb cleaner down the holes to clean the seats then a blast of air to clear it out if you have a compressor.

Gently pop the rods back in and check that they bounce on the springs. Then spin the tops back round and tighten down. Job done.

The other bit of your problem might be as Ive just had with my New Yorker.

This is what I did, an extract from my thread......


Thanks Terry....Ive fixed it mate....it was a timing issue.

Not sure if Ive gone abpout this the correct way but its fixed now. here is what I did.......

I started the car and held her on the throttle till she was warming up at 1500 rpm. Foot off pedal, died but warm.

Disconnected vac pipe, blocked port on carb.

Fitted remote starter then started her from the engine bay and slowly turned the idle speed screw to raise RPM to 1500 so she ran.

In my estimation, at 1500 rpm, I should see about 25 deg advance.

Set timing light to 25 deg, turnrd dizzy till I had 25 deg set. (I cant remember if I had to advance it or retard it....doh).

Readjusted the idle speed down to 800 rpm....initial now shows 16 deg BTDC.

Starts and runs fine and I can drop her into all the gears now without her dying...

Problem solved hopefully. Pete, as we thought, timing was a good starting point eh. I can only assume that my initial reading was wrong as I had to turn the dizzy quite a lot to get the 25 deg at 1500 rpm.

thanks for all your help men...MMA to the rescue again


My symptoms were,

1. wouldn't idle, just died
2. held revs up on throttle to keep her running but died when put into gear

I also upgraded my Polara to HEI, best thing Ive done to her with regards to starting etc. I disconnected the auto choke as it was a nightmare, now starts fine

Good luck and keep us posted

Cheers Steve