Mopar Muscle Association UK

Out of the blue my charger started getting very hot. This started happening six months ago and in this time I have tried the following to cure the problem.
Rad rebuilt.
New thermostat
New water pump
New fan belt
Flushed the block ten times or more and water is still rusty.
Two day ago I added and electric fan and this has still not helped.
Driving normally the car gradually increases temperature. I can drive from my work to home which takes around ten minutes and the temp will get to 220f. I have two temp gauges on the car. The original which has always been prity acurate and since I fitted the fuel injection the injection computer has its own temp sender and they both read very similar. Once I get on and open road the temp will come down but as soon as I hit any traffic or slow moving traffic the temp start to rise. Coming home from buster Lang in the rain on a cold day the temp still go to 220f in fifteen minutes.

Any advice and help would be grateful.
Thanks
Anton.

I had this on my A100. It always ran perfect, even in traffic, And the summer days here go well above 100 degrees.
When I put it away in the winter, I decided it was a good idea to drop the coolant and leave it dry for the winter.

This turned out to be a dumb idea, the following summer, I had exactly the same problem as you describe.

I think it was down to all the residue drying up and clogging the coolant tunnels. AS much as I flushed, it did not do bugger all. I did not cure it as I sold the truck on. But I would look into something that would gently eat away at all the crap, without destroying gaskets and hoses.

Has it ever had a rad leak seal additive added? That Bananarama! with it as well later down the line.

Umm I. Think you still have the original rad it might be time for a record or go down the alloy route .. If you've got rusty water that could be coming through the rad ... I had to change mine when moving up to the stroker I know you've up graded to the 360.. the only other thing is maybe one of the hoses are kinking up when she's running full on they do go soft over time. Hope this hopes mate you've helped me enough times
Rich

Have you changed the radiator cap? Maybe it isn't sealing properly.

Checked for cracked heads and gasket leaks I presume?
Tried reverse flushing it and then burping it? Some of the yanks swear by that.
Seems strange that rusty water is prevalent after so much flushing.

I never cured my old 318,core plugs out,wire rodded the block new plugs and filled the system with KD kettle descaler and left running to full temp for an hour. Reverse flushed and got plenty of orange water. When it ran clear system refilled and car used,never did stop overheating and the water was forever rusty.

Richard I have already had my rad recored and I have checked the rad cap as my system pressurises fine and only when it gets to 230f it will release the pressure as its meant to. Bothe rad hoses had steel springs in them to stop collapsing.
I have done a sniff test to test for combustion gasses in the coolant and that was negative.
Come the winter I will pull the engine and pull all the core plugs and see what's up. I will also remove the heads and have them tested.
Any other ideas will be great.

Water pump impellers can corrode so much that they don't move water.

Anton,
I had very rusty water with overheating very quickly too. The rust problem went away when I changed from water only to water and a litre or two of antifreeze concentrate.
Overheating sorted with raising front of car and running engine with rad cap off to get rid of airlocks and viscous clutch fan.
My heads did need a skim as CO2 was detected ( not in your case though)
Good luck
Chris

Probably not an issue but I fitted a hemi sized clutch fan which helps hugely. Chris Birdman also has one and previously had overheating heads

Earlier this year my car suddenly started getting hot in traffic. Once I got on the open road it cooled down again. I'd also noticed that the car felt underpowered and needed more throttle at cruise. Checked the ignition timing and the vacuum advance can had packed up. I have it connected to manifold vacuum for additional advance at idle and it tends to keep the engine cooler. Replaced it and the problem went away. You may have other problems but it might be worth looking at the ignition timing.

A few years ago I fitted a 440 Source aluminium water pump and had similar problems. The pump seemed to work fine most of the time but any time the car was left idling for a while the temperature crept up. In the end I re-fitted the old cast iron water pump and temps returned to normal. Something else to check, not all water pumps are as good as each other.

I run a MSD e-curve dizzy so I don't have a vac can and this dizzy has been on my car for two years. I did check the timing yesterday and set total to 32 rather than 34 as previous. I may try another pump buy being a 68 charger my pump is a two year only pump so options are limited unless I replace the rad and timing cover.
Once driving there is no issue but any slow moving traffic and the temp rises slowly. Pick the revs up at idle and the temp will decrease so if feel flow is find and the rad cooling is fine but have an issue with a blockage in the block causing hot spots or a crack in the block that's why I will remove the engine to check.

I remember Dave Rob commenting about timing causing somones overheating problems, might even have been mine... That's gotta be easier to check than pulling the motor?

Pulling back timing will cause more heat, although 2 degrees is small amount.

leaner fuel?

Vac leak?

is your fan shrouded