Page 1 of 1
Alternator and ameter wiring
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 16 4:35 pm
by Ed
Right this is probably a stupid question, but I will ask anyway.
I am currently sorting the electrics out in the engine bay of my 65 coronet.
Making a new loom for the engine from the connector block on the firewall etc.
Looking at the alternator wiring, and looking at a diagram I have for it, can I connect the alternator direct to the battery( including an inline maxi fuse for safety) and not have the ammeter working. I know from the wiring diagram that the fusebox and ignition take its power from the ammeter wire so could I just connect a live from the battery via starter relay and solenoid as normal through the fusible link to keep that side connected? Am I rambling and is this a stupid idea?
thanks in advance.
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 16 5:02 pm
by Dave81
Short answer is yes. Though most bypass it and connect to the starter relay.
You will want to do the ammeter bypass while your at it......no point in burning the car down after all that work........a known Mopar weakness!
If you go through the posts in here its been done by many and asked quite a few times.
Look up MAD electrical ammeter bypass!!!!
I managed to do it and the car still lives........so anybody should be able to do it!
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 16 10:05 pm
by Charger
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 16 10:16 pm
by Ed
Thanks for that , some interesting reading there.
Just one thought, looking at the diagrams of before and after, i know they are simplified, but why loop the red and black wires together if nothing is connected to the red side behind the dash, cant that just be ignored and connect the fusible link wire straight into the black wire to feed the fusebox and switches etc...? Then you wouldn't need to disconnect the ammeter and joint the wires together.
does that make sense?
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 16 7:29 am
by cadboy
The original circuit has the Amp as part of the circuit so taking out the black cable will brake the circuit.
That is why they connect the RED to the BLACK cables to by pass Amp.
And having two cables then it splits the current required by all between 2 cables, so less chance of a wire getting HOT.
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 16 10:01 am
by Ed
Ok thanks that makes sense.
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 16 9:02 am
by MattH
I did this recently and it worked fine. Steve posted a very good thread on how to do all this properly, well worth a coffee and toast whilst reading it.
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 16 12:57 pm
by Steve
I always have to revisit the thread I did on this but seem to remember it not quite as easy as wiring straight to the battery from the alternator as you still have to go through the welded splice under the dash.
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... ead+bypass
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 16 1:02 pm
by Steve
Im at work so cant read it all thoroughly but I think the new wiring from the alt to bat goes via the starter relay with a fusible link dropped into the circuit prior to the relay. Ive posted a link to my thread that Matt mentioned....worked fine in my Polara so should be ok for you
Cheers Steve
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 16 3:43 pm
by drewcrane
I have had some long conversations with Mark from Mad electrical , the guy is sharp and knows what is going on, I just ordered amp gauge by pass,headlight relays,fuel pump relays ,and a trunk mounted helper harness.
IT should be here my next week and I hope to tear in to the pesky wireing on the cars,over the years the old stuff has either worn, or corroded, and I really want that amp gauge gone,as well making a safer way to run an electric fuel pump with an oil pressure switch to shut it off when the engine is not running it will be a bit of a chore, but it is something I have wanted to do for years, so it will begin.
I still have to contact redline gauges ,as they can convert the amp gauge in to a volt meter
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 16 3:53 pm
by Steve
I made lighting relay boxes and a new headlamp loom for my polara and am doing the same with the New Yorker. Halfway through it now and hoping to Bananarama! next week as Im off work
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 16 4:33 pm
by drewcrane
I just spoke with Redline Gauges ,and they do a conversion, but I will have to send in the entire gauge cluster,and the amp gauge conversion to a volt meter will cost about $220.00 and they will also fix my tach to work with any after market ignition system,cost $245.00 so yea a little over a big shiny nickel and the car will be safe,and reliable,I have to do this, make sense to me