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Flippin' Lights!!!
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 16 1:54 pm
by Ian Deady
Hi, I've trawled through the forum pages and cannot find an answer, so I'll put it out there for you guys.
I have a 73 Charger that has a 72 bumper and hidden lights fitted. The lights work fine, but the hide-away motor was never connected. I have bought the complete harness to rig it, however, as far as I am aware, the 73 didn't have a circuit breaker or relay. If this is the case, what do I need to buy, from where, and how do it wire it to the existing loom???
I do not have to worry about keeping it original so cheaper non OEM parts are fine.
Fingers crossed and thanks in advance.
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 16 2:44 pm
by Dave999
get 2 4 pin relays with fuses
Use the switch in the dash to put power through the 85-->86 circuit on the relays.
i.e. wire from switch with 12 volts on it that used to trigger the hidden lamp motors. or indeed a new 12 volt feed via a switch in the dash from the fuse box, connect it to 85 on both relays
then connect a wire from 86 on both relays to earth i.e the screw you use to screw down your relay and fuse holder.
check that the relays click when you switch on the lights. or you new switch
next
take a feed from the battery to pin 30.
repeat for other fuse and relay
connect original wire from the hidden lamp motor to pin 87 for each motor
left motor to left relay, right motor to right relay
now when you switch the switch at the dash you use power from it to switch the relay on
and the relay switches power from the battery down pin 87 to you motors
if your motors are shorted out the fuse at the relay box blows before it melts the wire from battery to the fuse (pin 30).
infact
2 of these would do
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/p ... used-relay
they have the fuses in built
and here is the modular plug
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/p ... lay-socket
to make a nice tidy job
Dave
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 16 2:53 pm
by Ian Deady
Thanks Dave,
Maybe my grill isn't from a 72, as it only has one central motor, (therefore only 1 relay required). However, the info was great and I'll get shopping now.
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 16 3:01 pm
by Dave999
I just assumed 2
if just 1
1 relay
I had also noted that your lamp switch will be a one that has no feed for the motor I guess
so I changed what I wrote a bit
Dave
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 16 4:27 pm
by Ian Deady
Dave,
As you correctly assume, I do not have a dedicated feed for the motor on my light switch.
However, as I will be using a relay, would it be possible to splice directly into the headlight power feed (at the switch) for the relay 86/motor feed?
Hope i'm making sense.
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 16 4:43 pm
by latil
That's what I did on my Fury,took feed to relay from h/light on terminal,if your sidelights are in the h/lights then use the s/light on terminal on the switch.
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 16 4:47 pm
by Ian Deady
Thanks, can't wait to get this sorted. I'm fed up with using the manual winder!!!
Posted: Wed Mar 02, 16 12:32 pm
by Dave999
yeah sounds like a plan
use the side lights
doesn't matter if they are a fraction dimmer once you have the headlights up and on.
am guessing your lamp motor works similar to a wiper motor with a self cancel type arrangement which might complicate things.
ideally power = movement to up/open which switches off the motor with the lamps up.
a loss of power from the relay will trigger motor action to lower/close
if its like that life is good
if its not like that you may find that you need to do something fancy with a wire from the motor loom to feed it either 12 volt or earth it to get downward action
in which case you might need a 5 pin relay, and a few more shenanigans
experimentation with the motor and its wires will reveal all
Dave
Posted: Mon Mar 07, 16 11:13 pm
by Charger
Done some testing with headlamp door motor off of mine
Off the car it’s sticking since it got a drenching coming back from MOT last year
With ignition on …
Headlamps off - black/red is live
Headlamps on - blue/yellow is live
The motor drives in both directions open / close
There’s a cam in the gearbox that disconnects the close circuit when the doors are fully closed
And then disconnects the open circuit when the doors are fully open
Mine’s in bits right now
According to t’internet the lower bearing is prone to resistance due to ingress of water
Hoping it’ll operate more freely once everything’s lubed up

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 16 12:08 am
by Ian Deady
Thanks Si, (and everyone that posted replies),
I've rigged a 5 pin relay as described in another forum. Once I rebuild and install my dash, I'll be able to test with the light circuit.
I have tested the motor direct from 12v and it worked a treat on the car, adjustments seem to be spot on.
I've also installed a tachometer, stripped out some junk loom, and tidied the wiring in the engine bay and behind the dash. Fingers crossed, all my gauges will now work.
Just got to install an original radio, then hopefully, that will be the last time I have to wire anything.
👌😀