Mopar Muscle Association UK

Always the risk with eBay, but hey ho, I have two issues.

The Mount kit appears to have everything in it and it's PN #3314.

First issue is the wheel moves freely, but there is very light scrubbing between the rear cap an the column. It doest interfere with the steering motion, but the fact it makes noise grates on me.......I take it this is not a known issue and im missing something?

Second.......I've lost the horn (no joke).
The rear plunger is contacting the rear ring no problem. I've fed the wire through to the contact plate and the horn button mounts perfectly. Press it and nothing.

Was lucky that the previous owner left his original grant mount with the car so tried that too.......Still nothing.
Now reading through the online info it states that for single earth horns you need to put the Ali foil down on the baseplate for painted wheels (painted silver spokes) to create the contact......

Problem is I can't find any info on this 'foil' and in all pics if the installation kits it's not listed as a part.

Any ideas?

The bloke who i bought my duster from ordered a grant wheel and sent it to me after i picked the car up, it looks nice and has plymouth horn cap on, but i wish i had never bothered now, had so many horn issues, from it not working to it being alwasy on. I think i had the same kit, and i never had the foil. Ive had to shove a bit of foam under the horn plate thing, and even then it doesnt work half the time

When I bought the Road Runner it had a Grant steering wheel fitted and the horn didn't work. I got it to work reliably in the end by sanding paint off the centre of the wheel if I remember correctly, it was 12 years ago. I never did like the feel of the Grant wheel, it felt too small and I changed it for a proper Mopar steering wheel soon after I got the car. Never thought of changing it again, it just feels right with a big steering wheel.

Always had Grant wheels or similar on my cars. The trim ring can scrape the column, neither is perfectly round, after a while it will wear itself some clearance. The plate under the horn button needs to earth against the wheel to sound the horn. If you've got painted spokes, a foil disc would earth it via the centre bolt, anything mettalic would work.

I gleaned most of my car experience on MGB's. The late cars with rubber wheels often rub on the column surround. I found that a tiny shot of silicon spray would shut it up for 6 months. Maybe that'll work on a mopar?

Both solved thanks all............The scraping has been solved by a large 1mm thick washer, no more contact between the two.

The Horn.......slept on it and I figured that I didn't have a positive earth. I'll be buggered if I'm spending cash on another kit that may not be correct, so with some creative thinking.....




Kitchen foil......

Held down by central washer and nut, three horn ring bolts and some strategically located frog tape........it only bloody works.

I also sanded down the central wheel hole on both sides, the black cap both sides, so I knew it'd have pure metal contact onto the column.

Took it for a five mile drive and wow........The car drives the best it ever has. The difference between the 16" original and the new 13.5" Grant is a lot bigger than I anticipated. Some more wayward slop has been removed due to the reduction in diameter, plus the thicker grip feels a bit more natural.

One of the best mods I've done.

Thanks again for the help!

I recently fitted one to
my Dart with a manual box, and I have to agree... best mod ever!

I have the opposite problem in that with the Grant I fitted today the horn is permanently on, and I cannot deploy sticky tape sufficiently to prevent it happening.

Got bored now but I am starting to wonder if the one I have is made up of two different kits / Manufacturers.....Can't get enough clearance on the horrible fibreboard / metal bracket from the steering wheel and also contacting the retaining bolts.

Pete wrote:I have the opposite problem in that with the Grant I fitted today the horn is permanently on, and I cannot deploy sticky tape sufficiently to prevent it happening.

Got bored now but I am starting to wonder if the one I have is made up of two different kits / Manufacturers.....Can't get enough clearance on the horrible fibreboard / metal bracket from the steering wheel and also contacting the retaining bolts.

Should be no metal to metal contact with the retaining bolts and the spring under the horn button should be pulling the fibre board/metal away from the wheel center to disconnect the earth.....any pics Pete?

lough3969 wrote:I recently fitted one to
my Dart with a manual box, and I have to agree... best mod ever!

Yep.......Makes the car feel a bit more positive when driving!
Actually feel like I'm driving the car rather than the other way round.

I have not got pictures, but I have done a few in the past.

The shouldered bolts are not long enough and clamp the mica hard down, I will try and pack them tomorrow if I can be arsed - I need to get it track ready for the Pod on Saturday and make a fool of myself in Superstock.

Pete wrote:I have not got pictures, but I have done a few in the past.

The shouldered bolts are not long enough and clamp the mica hard down, I will try and pack them tomorrow if I can be arsed - I need to get it track ready for the Pod on Saturday and make a fool of myself in Superstock.

Fitted a new 13.5" wheel today and it does make a nice difference.

Horn all fitted, no problem but had a couple of incidents of the horn button pinging off.

Anyone got any tips to keep it secure??

I packed each of the 3 bolts out with washers so that the horn ring protruded more so you can push the horn cap on further (often a twist when on helps) and then if required, slowly lever it off a bit so there is clearance and so the horn does not continuously sound!!!

Bryan wrote:Fitted a new 13.5" wheel today and it does make a nice difference.

Horn all fitted, no problem but had a couple of incidents of the horn button pinging off.

Anyone got any tips to keep it secure??

When you pushed the horn cap on, did you rotate it clockwise about 15mm?

Three cutouts in the fibre board should line up with the the tangs on the cap......you need to rotate so the tangs grip the board.......if not it they will eject off the wheel?