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Drum brake problem... help!!
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 16 11:34 pm
by db
I've rebuilt my rear brakes and the right side ain't right.
The drum turns easily by hand in reverse, but it jams forwards.
The left one turns easily both ways and I'm buggered if I can see any difference between the two sides
It worked fine before I stripped it so it's got to be something I've done wrong.
Any thoughts?
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 16 11:35 pm
by GJUK
my drums are off the car at the moment, would you like me to take a photo of them to help, tomorrow morning?
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 16 11:36 pm
by db
...and the good side for comparison
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 16 11:37 pm
by db
GJUK wrote:my drums are off the car at the moment, would you like me to take a photo of them to help, tomorrow morning?
Yes please

spot the...
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 16 11:46 pm
by GJUK
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 16 11:47 pm
by GJUK
top springs are in front of the handbrake cable, others are behind
on set of springs end at the top, the others bottom of the mounting point
on 'bit' points down, the other up? maybe due the part not being 'handed'?
that is all I could see.
to help viewing...
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 16 11:51 pm
by GJUK
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 6:38 am
by cadboy
I think the shorter shoes should face the front of the car, not sure though, it is something someone told me.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 7:01 am
by ANTON
db the only thing I can see wrong is the parking brake metal bar the spring ear is the wrong way round. It is meant to hold the metal bar up so it doesn't rub the axle. all else looks good.
Large brake shoe faces the front of the car.
See photo
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 9:29 am
by db
Good pic Anton, thanks.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
The springs aren't sided so one side points up, the other side points down.
Same with the metal bar- left and right brakes use identical bars so one has to curl up, one has to curl down. The tangs still hold it up ok though so I'm pretty sure it's ok.
The top loop of the cable should be in front of the little guide I think. This is how I'd assembled BOTH sides at first. The cable on the working (left) side though has stretched so I've moved it behind the guide onto a fatter part of the peg to tension it slightly. It's done the trick and still works.
This mod is on the GOOD side so not part of my problem.
I'll try swapping parts left to right, see where the fault goes then!
Thanks for your help

Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 11:15 am
by latil
I've often had to lightly chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the linings to stop binding or even sudden lockup when applying the brakes.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 12:01 pm
by Blue
cadboy wrote:I think the shorter shoes should face the front of the car, not sure though, it is something someone told me.
The longer lining (leading shoe) goes to the front.
The shorter lining (trailing shoe) goes to the rear.
I would try chamfering the edges as Latil suggests, sounds a likely cause.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 12:15 pm
by db
Good idea, I'll do that
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 4:40 pm
by db
Blue wrote:cadboy wrote:I think the shorter shoes should face the front of the car, not sure though, it is something someone told me.
The longer lining (leading shoe) goes to the front.
The shorter lining (trailing shoe) goes to the rear.
quote]
I have the longer shoe at the rear, BUT, the park lever and the little peg that locates the ratchet plate are riveted to it so it can only go at the rear. The shoes are sided so they also can't be swapped left to right.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 5:50 pm
by Pete
I am sure you can take the Lynch pin out of the shoe and put it in the other one - that how you change linings - so you can set it up as Blue says.