Mopar Muscle Association UK

This has been on the list for this Autumn and seeing Pauls thread has reminded me.

I'm after any advice please on parts and suppliers for new rear wheel bearings for the Demon.

Do the half shafts un-bolt, slide out, replace bearings and re-fit? Or is it somewhat more in depth than that

I've happily worked on the fronts with no problems but they are obviously not driven. Do I need to go into the diff? (Stock 8 3/4 diff, the little one that's cast with the back on, not removable) I cant remember the casting number, just that its a stock open diff, nothing flash

Seeing as I wont make the Nats this year I wont be able to ask there and I guess its all going to be a bit quiet on here till Monday

The worst part is that you have to cut the retaining collar off and use a press to get the new ones on.

Your best bet is to pull the half shafts and take them up to Hausers and let them supply and fit.

Green Bearings or old school Tapers, that's the question?

Cheers Pete, sounds like a plan to have them replaced by pro's.

Hmmmm, Greens or Taper certainly IS the question, jury seems permanently out on this one eh?

I'd previously researched so many conflicting thoughts on the subject and then to see it pop up recently on here didn't help either

I must say I'm leaning towards the taper design based on side load pressure. Only as its 95% street, not that snaking out of every T junction is a common activity

Personally, I would rather go Tapers on the street.

You cannot use Tapers with a Spool.

+1 for Hausers. Top service.

James,
I just did this on mine after having the axle noise for ages.
I had never touched an axle, all a bit mysterious, but its easy, drums off, 5 nuts off, pull shafts out (leave brakes in place) then take both to Hausers and have a coffee and read CA in their reception whilst they swear and bash off the old collar and cut off the bearings. It is while you wait, about an hour and cost me £54 for a side supplied and fitted.
Keep it taper as per MOPAR intended, its adjustable then for end float (should be 13 thou, I had about 8mm ).

Geoff checked both and said one of mine was fine, didnt need changing. Obviously the 8mm end float was most of the noise rather than the bearing being knackered, but once I had put a grinder through it, it did need changing!

Perfect, thanks guys, as ever

Sounds like a plan, Matt cheers.

We did this job on AndyR's Fury and it was relatively easy.

We took the half shafts out and a mate of mine with an engineering company cut the old bearings and collars off. With hind sight, we could have easily (and carefully) cut them off ourselves.

My mate gave me a 3ft long piece of hefty metal tubing and we slid the new bearings onto the shafts. We then turned them over, slid the tube over the shaft and used its weight to gently tap the bearings into place.

Andy got a kit that included all the new parts we needed to completely do both sides and it was great fun doing it. Real sense of satisfaction when all the seals went in etc and it all worked well