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Trans cooler line removal
Posted: Tue Oct 04, 16 3:42 pm
by ChrisN34
Hi all, recently bought a new aly rad with integrated trans cooler like the original rad, started to uninstall the old rad but ran into a problem with the trans cooler lines, i cant seem to unscrew them, is there a certain way to get them loose or a special tool, i did a quick search online where a lot of people said (later year dodges mainly) the lines are barbed and require a special tool to remove, would these older lines be like this too?
I Tried unscrewing the smaller nut at the front, closest to the rad, but do i turn the bigger one behind it?
Cheers
Chris
Posted: Tue Oct 04, 16 4:51 pm
by Cannonball
YES OPEN END HALF INCH SPANNER ON THE UNION, 9/16 OR 5/8 OPEN ENDER ON THE PIPE NUT WD 40 SHOULD UNDO NO SWEAT,
Posted: Tue Oct 04, 16 9:10 pm
by Dave81
Dropped wd40 on mine over two nights.
Just unscrewed on the third.
Flared ends on my 72. Thread on the nut gives a compression fit as it tightens.
Up to you but most people tend to run separate cooling for the trans. I'm not a fan of having heat transference between the two in the rad......plus if one of them fails it can get expensive.
Posted: Tue Oct 04, 16 9:18 pm
by Dave81
Here's my setup......
Posted: Wed Oct 05, 16 5:10 pm
by ChrisN34
cheers for the advice guys, got the lines off in the end and new rad installed, well almost. the lines wont go in to the new rad, they are ever so slightly too long (as the new rad is slightly bigger than the original) any advice on what to do here, I will add a picture of what i mean, but the lines are so stiff they just wont bend into place, the left hand side one i can kinda get into place but this right one just wont budge.
Posted: Wed Oct 05, 16 11:28 pm
by ChrisN34
Dave81 wrote:Here's my setup......
Dave, what cooler set up is that? Is it available in the UK, are you also using flex hoses for the trans cooler too? Was it fairly easy to install?
Cheers
Chris
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 16 12:54 pm
by Dave81
ChrisN34 wrote:Dave81 wrote:Here's my setup......
Dave, what cooler set up is that? Is it available in the UK, are you also using flex hoses for the trans cooler too? Was it fairly easy to install?
Cheers
Chris
All UK parts apart from the connections onto the Transmission (used Earls via Summit Racing).
Cooler is Mocal.
Braided Teflon Hose with AN6 fittings all from Torques (eBay).
......All in my Workshop thread Chris!
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 16 12:57 pm
by Dave81
Taken from said thread......
For those that are interested in the cost to do the trans cooler upgrade:
Hose (albeit 6m worth) is = �58.
4x 90 deg fittings = �49.96
4x straight fittings = �27.96
2x bulkhead connectors = �11.98
4x bulkhead nuts = �3.96
2x 1/8NPT to AN6 fitting = �5.78
2x Mocal oil cooler fitting to AN6 = �11.98
4x Hose separator = �15.16
= �184.78 parts plus shipping
Oil Cooler mounting bracket = �22.49
Heat Sheath = �25.43
Mocal Oil Cooler (235mm 13row) = �65.98
= �298.68
You may be able to get it cheaper or go with normal braided hose etc..........I only plan on doing this once!
Also the front hose connection on the gearbox is nearly impossible to get to (tranny oil pan/belhousing/cooler line/exhaust....all in the way). If you can drop the box a bit to aid in removal of old and tightening of the new fittings, as the movement is probably restricted to 1/8 turn each time.
I stuck at it but it took at least an hour to do that one!
Get yourself some tweezers too..........Removing metal splinters from hands is free! Very Happy
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 16 2:52 pm
by ChrisN34
cheers dave, very helpful, will have to look into getting a separate set up.
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 16 3:49 pm
by ChrisN34
ChrisN34 wrote:cheers for the advice guys, got the lines off in the end and new rad installed, well almost. the lines wont go in to the new rad, they are ever so slightly too long (as the new rad is slightly bigger than the original) any advice on what to do here, I will add a picture of what i mean, but the lines are so stiff they just wont bend into place, the left hand side one i can kinda get into place but this right one just wont budge.
Still looking for any advice on what to do for this? Anyone come across this problem or something similar?
Cheers Chris
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 16 4:04 pm
by Dave999
you will probably have to cut it back and re-flare it
then use a bit of braided line to connect up
http://www.mocal.co.uk/ the maker of the parts
http://www.thinkauto.com/ the retail arm of the same company
if you can find out the size and thread of that joint the blokes above will build you a line to fit in the gap with the correct connectors on the ends
the hard bit will be flaring the cut end of the old tube,
remember to put the female end on first
need a decent flare tool for steel pipe in that size. looks bigger than most brake pipe flaring kits can handle
if its just a single flare its going to be easier rather than the double/inverted type used on the brakes
dave
