Page 1 of 7
Steel framed building
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 16 5:11 pm
by GJUK
Has anyone on here had exposure to or dealing with erecting a steel framed building? My logic is that mopars are big, someone on here must have built a 'hanger' at some stage to house them, or knows of someone that has?
Looking for a bit of real world advice and maybe things to look out for when building this kind of structure, or a "big garage" in general. I want a ramp in there at a later date so considerations of electric and supporting concrete base have been covered... Anything you might have regret not putting in to a garage when you built one?
The one I want to build it 45x30ft and Cyclone steel buildings seem like a good provider in the UK and their quotation looks alright also.
Any advice, general pointers etc welcome.
Thanks.
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 16 5:46 pm
by andyrob
I bought one of these
http://miraclespan.co.uk/products/arche ... acle-span/
40 ft wide by 50 deep
cheapest way to have a big building, had it 12 yrs execelent value for money, but hot in the summer and cold in the winter
Have to run a demumidifer in the winter as not lined or insulated
Took some screwing together though and a few ££ in the base to stand it on
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 16 8:42 pm
by GJUK

Thank you.
I'll have to look in to these and get a quote.
Condensation is something of a problem with metal structures.
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 16 9:54 am
by shovelheadrob
Might seem like a lot more expense but go for insulated panels, you can get non drip roof sheets but I don't know how well they work over proper composite panels. Roof lights are good as you can't beat a bit of natural light.
There are places that do seconds, which will save money on cladding if you design and build your own. If you go for a kit, ask if it includes all the flashings, gutters, closers etc as that could add a bit if not.
Those miracle span are good value, but IMHO, as they are curved you can't always make use of every inch. Also not so easy to add insulation.
Are you putting pads in for the frame stanchions & for the ramp or just a slab?
I used to do a bit of erecting & cladding so feel free to ask any technical questions & I'll do my best to answer.
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 16 8:48 am
by GJUK
Thanks!
shovelheadrob wrote:Might seem like a lot more expense but go for insulated panels, you can get non drip roof sheets but I don't know how well they work over proper composite panels. Roof lights are good as you can't beat a bit of natural light.
Good feedback, I see they do 'built in' non drip treatments but like you, I don't know how good that really is.
If you go for a kit, ask if it includes all the flashings, gutters, closers etc as that could add a bit if not.
I think I will be going for a kit, the more traditional huge RSJ type framed buildings seem a bit old school compared to these C framed buildings, more expensive and harder to put up.
Those miracle span are good value, but IMHO, as they are curved you can't always make use of every inch. Also not so easy to add insulation.
I did think that, I will go for a more traditional shaped building, vertical walls etc.
Are you putting pads in for the frame stanchions & for the ramp or just a slab?
Well I understand when I decide on my building specifics, they will send over plans for planning permission, and my foundations which I'll do myself. I know that a lift will require a good base to work to. The idea is to pour it all in one though (with expansion gaps).
I used to do a bit of erecting & cladding so feel free to ask any technical questions & I'll do my best to answer.
Thanks!
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 16 8:59 pm
by Stu
What happened to Ivors super shed thread?
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 5:22 pm
by GJUK
Not sure I know of that thread, sounds interesting though?
I've done this drawing, to scale.
The red mopar is sized to be my Dart, the green cars and escort. These cars might change over the years but it give me an idea of sizes.
What does everyone think?
Can I improve this in anyway, move the lift perhaps, or access points for the garage?
Thanks,
J
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 5:33 pm
by Dart Vader
where's the beer fridge?
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 5:51 pm
by GJUK
God damnit, back to the drawing board!

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 6:25 pm
by Blue
Personally unless you think you'll be using the lift all the time I'd move it over to where the red car is. You'd have to manoeuvre around it to get a car into the other corner otherwise, not ideal. If you do put it in the corner allow enough space away from the wall to be able to get a half shaft out, that should be ample space to do most things.
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 6:49 pm
by GJUK
Thanks Blue, will have a re-jig.
The lift is the one thing I had issues with, position wise.
I did some 'real life' driving in and out of the 'garage', with it pegged out in the ground while in the dart and it was tricky to get around the post of the ramp.
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 7:43 pm
by andyrob
Blue wrote:Personally unless you think you'll be using the lift all the time I'd move it over to where the red car is. You'd have to manoeuvre around it to get a car into the other corner otherwise, not ideal. If you do put it in the corner allow enough space away from the wall to be able to get a half shaft out, that should be ample space to do most things.
I agree + you never know how many cars you will want in at a later date and anything permanently fixed down does not want to be in the middle, as long as the ramp is in line with one of the doors, for when your pushing a none runner on the ramp, it will happen
Also make the garage deep enough to get 2 b bodies in nose to tail, I made this mistake on my brick garage,I thought 1 b body + normal car would be all Id ever need, with a result now im just slightly short to get 2 big yanks in nose to tail and Ive most just got big yank tanks now
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 7:57 pm
by Blue
Couple of other thoughts, if you can afford to do it, fit 3 doors so you can drive straight in and out of your 3 bays. I would also fit benches/ racking and equipment along the back wall leaving the maximum amount of floor space accessible without obstruction.
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 8:06 pm
by GJUK
Thanks both.
The rollers are cat5 type, industrial ones and crazy expensive. Another one pushes it over budget really but I see your point totally.
Having another roller is an additional £3500.
Rear benches make sense for sure.
I will get a quote for a 40ft x45ft and see if that ups the price much a lot. So I can fit in two B bodies. It'll probably never happen but worth doing it once and properly if the budget allows.
Noted about the ramp position and fixing of.
Do you think the roller door is overkill at 3.5m x 4m wide?
Perhaps I should work at having three 3x3m doors?
Cheers,
Jon
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 16 8:31 pm
by latil
I'd go for 3 doors,gives a straight run in,useful if it's being pushed in. 3m door is plenty wide enough unless you're going start doing vintage trucks
