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Serious problems - easy solutions
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 17 9:28 pm
by Rebel
After reading and posting in the quiet forum thread, I thought it might be a bit of fun ( and maybe even educational ) to start this thread off.
The idea being, all those problems that we've all had at some point, the ones that you just can't work out the cause of, whether permanent or intermittent. Let's hear them, as well as hopefully making the board a bit more lively, you never know, we might all be able to teach someone something that'll come in handy one day
Doesn't need to be restricted to Mopar's either, just stupidly simple solutions to what appeared to be serious problems to start with.
I'll even get the ball rolling with one.
I own a '93 Toyota Hilux Surf, at one point when it wouldn't start and after trying all the usual checks to get it to go, a quick post on the Hilux forum resulted in someone asking if there was a brake light out. After checking and replacing a blown bulb, I tried again and it fired up

. It's a known issue, apparently!
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 17 11:20 pm
by charger01
Great idea Nige.For those on a budget and can't afford oem parts . If your fuel gauge isnt working pull the wire off the fuel sender at the tank and earth it to the body.Turn the ignition on and see if the fuel gauge reads full. If it does your wiring and gauage are good but the float on the sender is probably pinholed and full of petrol. Now the Tip. Landrover series 2 sender is dirt cheap and the float fits perfect.
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 17 11:27 pm
by charger01
Another cheap fix .Starter relay (Sometimes turns over , other times won't turn over) O.e.m parts Kerching $$$$$. Stick a mk2 escort one on for £20 looks the same and wiring straight swap.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 6:15 am
by Pete
Great thread - keep them coming!!!
Has anyone a cheap fix for the 5v Regulator unit that fits in the dash??
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 8:48 am
by Prothed
Google '7805 regulator mopar fix' for a cheap DIY circuit.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 9:25 am
by morgan
I think the single best piece of advice I had was a Pete Wiseman one. Basically, "Earth earth earth". Stuff needs an earth. They go crusty. Never assume... All sorts of gremlins can come down to this.
Oh, and dont muck about with a perfectly good Charger. It will cost you lots of time and money

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 10:38 am
by MattH
Timing and timing, then check your timing!
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 10:41 am
by MattH
Only relevant to twin tank Land Rovers (!) but if you have continuous fuel starvation problems so it breaks down every 300 yards but ticks over all day long, check that the fuel tap to switch tanks is pushed all the way to the tank with fuel in, and not sucking a bit of air from the empty unused tank.
Do this BEFORE replacing fuel pump, coil, plugs, points and condenser and rebuilding carb.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 10:50 am
by morgan
MattH wrote:Do this BEFORE replacing fuel pump, coil, plugs, points and condenser and rebuilding carb.
Good tip Matt. Reminds me to also check the choke hasnt jammed shut preventing starting before tearing your entire ignition apart AGAIN in a fit of mindless rage.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 1:00 pm
by Dave81
Simple one really.........
Whatever time you think it will take to do a simple task.....Double it and add 50%.
I've given up telling the wife i'll only be an hour.
Profanity helps you to bond with the car as well!!!!
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 1:00 pm
by Captain Chaos
Okay not Mopar but.
Early/mid 2000's VW Polo/Fox and Golf which scans as ABS Pump failure,can put Steering Angle Codes and Brake Fluid Warning Light on too. Check flat bolt in Fuses on top of Battery(not in any Fuse Box) as blown fuse can give you the same symptoms.
1990's to 2006 ish Honda CRV when on full lock Rear Diff feels like it is skipping or winding up and releasing (feels horrible) Buy genuine Honda Diff Fluid and do at least two Fluid Changes and problem will go.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 2:31 pm
by morgan
Captain Chaos wrote:
1990's to 2006 ish Honda CRV when on full lock Rear Diff feels like it is skipping or winding up and releasing (feels horrible) Buy genuine Honda Diff Fluid and do at least two Fluid Changes and problem will go.
Our XC90 is horrible on full lock - feels just like that - scrubbing and skipping (multi-storeys are the worst). Maybe it is diff oil... Will get it done next service

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 2:50 pm
by Captain Chaos
morgan wrote:Captain Chaos wrote:
1990's to 2006 ish Honda CRV when on full lock Rear Diff feels like it is skipping or winding up and releasing (feels horrible) Buy genuine Honda Diff Fluid and do at least two Fluid Changes and problem will go.
Our XC90 is horrible on full lock - feels just like that - scrubbing and skipping (multi-storeys are the worst). Maybe it is diff oil... Will get it done next service

These have a Software Update on the Gearboxes that the Main Dealer can download on to it,I look after three of these and have had it done on two of them,that might be worth checking as it makes the Box feel uncertain/delayed changes too.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 17 9:29 pm
by Demon James
Pete wrote:Great thread - keep them coming!!!
Has anyone a cheap fix for the 5v Regulator unit that fits in the dash??
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... highlight=
I've most likely got all the parts to do this and you can have them, can't get much cheaper

Posted: Thu Mar 30, 17 12:21 pm
by Cuda Commando
Addition to Rebels first post regarding bulb out.On late nineties onward cars if engine starts but is running rough,before looking under bonnet check all bulbs are working.Know of many a case of particularly tail,brake or interior bulb outs causing engine to run like a cylinder is down.