Mopar Muscle Association UK

Apologies if this topic hs been covered before, but think I have a battery drain problem and could do with some help as a newbie.
Took my '68 Satellite out for a 30 mile drive last week, and startup all OK as usual.
Next morning totally dead electrics, no dome light, nada.
Changed out old battery (10 years old and looking a bit bulgy at the bottom) for brand spanking new and replaced all battery connectors with new as one was pretty broken up.
Car cranked and started better than ever before and took it for a short trip - alternator running fine.
Fri morning went to start up ready for first long run up to the Euro Nats, and back to start of story with dead electrics, not even dome light.
So, suspect car has developed a battery drain - checked all no brainer stuff like no lights / switches left on.
Any idea how to start diagnosing / tracing this?
Can get access to a mutimeter, but though I'm mechanically pretty good am totally ignorant of all things electrical so could do with some pointers on how to proceed to get the old girl purring again.
Any help appreciated,
Limey

you can trace a battery drain with a bulb or test light.


disconnect the battery earth and put the test lamp (must be old fashioned bulb type not LED) between the disconnected terminal and the battery. the bulb will light then just start disconnecting things until the lamp goes out. start with the fuses then go from there.

You have to check that your charging system works first,
by getting a voltmeter and check if you are getting more that 12 (may be 14 volts) on battery terminals when car is running.

If charging system works okay then start looking for cable shoring to the body, check under the dash, usually a good place for cable trap.

Unfortunately there is no quick fix for this, mine took 6 or 7 months to find, as you have to look at all the wiring.

Good luck.

When you have finished using the car you could disconnect the battery earth lead. Then when you come to use the car next time reconnect it and the battery should still be charged and will start the car and you will then know the car is draining the battery somehow.

cheers
Shayne

Thanks everybody - That's enough to get me started!
Will let you know how I get on.
All the Best,
Limey

Not a 'cure' as such but I fitted a kill switch to mine. Not that I had a battery drain but my garage used to be integral to the house and I didnt like the idea of it sitting in there 'live'. Basically I use the big key to 'kill' the connection to +ve so it couldnt drain even if it wanted to.

In your case it would be better to find it - as something isnt right. But in the interim popping the +ve off or fitting a key will buy you time.

Thanks Morgan - Got myself a negative battery isolator switch (which I hope will do the same job) on order to get myself back up and running while I try and trace the problem.
One thing I noticed at the Euro Nats was that most other 68-70 B bodies in stock configuration had a single Negative cable bolted directly to the engine block, while on mine it bolts to the intake manifold with a second smaller cable bolting to the radiator support.
Is this correct?
Limey

LurkinLimey wrote: Thu Aug 02, 18 12:00 am Thanks Morgan - Got myself a negative battery isolator switch (which I hope will do the same job) on order to get myself back up and running while I try and trace the problem.
One thing I noticed at the Euro Nats was that most other 68-70 B bodies in stock configuration had a single Negative cable bolted directly to the engine block, while on mine it bolts to the intake manifold with a second smaller cable bolting to the radiator support.
Is this correct?
Limey

Inlet manifold???
I think there should be a good strap to engine block and another to body.

I learned a long time ago (thanks to this forum ) that you cant have enough 'earths' in these old cars. No end of problems come down to 'bad earth'.

Personally I run a strap from -ve to the engine via exhaust stud (goes through the gaskets and into the block then) and another direct to body. In addition any components such as voltage regulator get their own mini-strap back to earth just top be sure (with the paint rubbed off and a good contact).

Not saying its the source of your problem - but honestly - sort the earths out as a matter of course otherwise you are chasing ghosts (in my experience !)

morgan wrote: Thu Aug 02, 18 12:40 pm I learned a long time ago (thanks to this forum ) that you cant have enough 'earths' in these old cars. No end of problems come down to 'bad earth'.

Personally I run a strap from -ve to the engine via exhaust stud (goes through the gaskets and into the block then) and another direct to body. In addition any components such as voltage regulator get their own mini-strap back to earth just top be sure (with the paint rubbed off and a good contact).

Not saying its the source of your problem - but honestly - sort the earths out as a matter of course otherwise you are chasing ghosts (in my experience !)

I TOTALLY agree with Morgan....great advice!! I have an earth strap from my negative battery post to the block and back to the body. I have one from the rear of the block to the bulkhead. I also have one from my alternator bracket to the body. My HEI unit and voltage regulator have their own individual small leads so that if the case to body earth fails it will still work. Mopar rear lights and front indicators etc often earth through the bulb holders to the housing so will go out if the contact between them is poor or loose. Solder (or jubilee clip) small earth leads around each holder and run them to new bare metal self tapers on the body. If you do this, the bulb holders can be removed and the lights stay on. no more getting home and finding they have rattled loose and you had no lights on the way home from a show (yes, it happened to me!).

I always isolate the battery when parked at a show or in the garage. I don't trust old car wiring.

As already mentioned, check alternator is working. Start up, put heater and main beam headlights on and check around 14.3 -14.6V out from back stud. Then check what it is at battery (13.5V or so). All good signs that your alternator and voltage regulator are working OK. If you don't have a good old bulb tester, stick your meter on between the removed negative lead and earth. If it shows a reading, then you have something drawing current (again, covered previously). Then the fun part, eliminating circuits...... ha ha!

Finally, another great bit of 'insurance' is to split the bulkhead connector and meticulously clean it. There will probably be green oxidation in there. Get rid of it all and when nice and clean, pack the terminals with Dow Corning dielectric DC10 grease and put back together. Many electrical issues come from heat generating in the bulkhead connector due to resistance in the terminals. Bulkhead bypass is another worthwhile upgrade but first things first eh.

Good luck, cheers Steve

Thanks for all the excellent advice all - Lots to think about!
Will let you know how I get on.....
All the Best,
Limey

Hi Everybody - Think I've cracked it (with your help!) and my newly aquired multi meter.
Confirmed no problem with charging system after driving car in most conditions and voltages just fine.
Continuity checked all fuses and fuse holders.
Cleaned up all earth connections from negative side.
Also fitted a battery isolator / kill switch on the negative side so at least I could drive the car while tracing the problem.
Found a significant drain with the meter when the car was standing between battery post and negative battery connector.
Found the issue in the steering column.
Car doesn't have a horn on the wheel boss after it's suspected history as track / street racer.
Car has a separate button on the dash to activate the horn which I think was fitted presumably after it was returned to the street for Hot Rod Power Tour duty.
Disassembled aftermarket old Grant steering wheel and found two ends of a broken black wire under the steering wheel hub one of which appeared to have exposed copper resting on the steering wheel housing.
Think I disturbed it while trying to resolve an issue with the indicator switch, though it appears to have been broken a long time ago.
Taped off the wire ends, and zero battery drain to earth!
So, will continue with the discipline to to use battery isolator switch when not using the car.
On to my next electrical issue which is having an always ON oil idiot light when ignition on, despite having plenty of oil pressure, and replacing the sender at motor twice, but will raise a separate thread for that!
Thanks again to all for your help and advice - much appreciated,
Limey

Good job you found the wires and have fixed.

That is car electrics for you, a loose wire and you drain the battery.

Well done Limey, always a nice feeling when you sort something like this out