Mopar Muscle Association UK

Hi All,

Can anyone please tell me the correct car battery for a small block E body? The current one in my car says 34, however I understand the original spec is for a 24A battery, which is not available in the UK. Mine's gone flat and won't come back to life.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Get the biggest one that will fit with the highest cold cranking.

Derek wrote: Sat Oct 12, 19 7:30 pm Get the biggest one that will fit with the highest cold cranking.

Batteries for Diesels are worth a look.

The Alternative is a Gel Battery - mine is 815 cca - but they do not look very "period"...

Thanks for the information. Much better than Facebook!

Like they said - also go for the longest warranty...

or if you want a cheap one that you can take all of the stickers off so it just looks like a black 70s battery

an 096 or 100 from lion batteries from euro car parts or GSF... one of them usually have an offer on and they work out at £50 list price is about £100

the 096 battery is better by 20 CCA

this is a basic, some would say really crap battery. the internet wizdom states this in no uncertain terms

however i have had mine for 8 years no bother, there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, and its not like i'm out and about in the car all year round.

suspect these are just batteries built like they were in 1970s rather than high tech for modern cars they don't seem to mind heavy drian but as with all batteries won't put up with being run flat more than once. i know this cos i used them in my VW Van.

Specifications
096 Battery - 3 Year Guarantee.
Amp Hours: (Ah): 70Ah.
Cold Cranking Amp: (CCA): 640.
Length: 278mm.
Width: 175mm.
Height: 190mm.

its this shape , and position of round + and - is as shown

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-########+

With stickers removed the best one is from Toyota that fits the Land Cruiser. Correct position of terminals etc and extremely reliable.

same with oil filters....80s land cruiser always seem to be listed along with aussie mopars for many universal parts when i lived in Oz, batteries oil filters some lights radiator cap distributor cap for the 6 cylinders...

the landcruiser in the 80s used a filter the same as the ford AFL-1 (aussie) or FL-1A (US) which is the same as the aussie Z9 which is the same as the fram PH8A used on many mopars where there is space

hence I used to buy landcruiser filters for my mopar. they had a good anti drain back valve i since moved to motorcraft/motorsport FL-1A as 80s landcruisers and their parts are thin on the ground here...

so i agree there is merit in a battery listed for a 80s/90 landcruiser

096 or 100 series fit under the bonnet and on the tray and i think if your car has the wires next to the inner wing you will need negative to the front positive to the rear both on the inner wing side.

putting a battery in that is hugely over specified might sound good, and it will start the car no probs when extremely flat. the trouble is after that when the alternator comes on. it comes on at full power. and sinks massive amperage into the battery until it is charged...which is fine and dandy if your wires and ammeter are up to it.... things can get a bit hot if not. If you have bypassed the bulkhead connector and ammeter, this is not a problem provided the wire from alternator stud to relay stud and on to battery is nice and fat. otherwise you run your 50+ year old ammeter at 36 amps with the needle wedged against its stop...and they are nearing pensionable age and don't like it.


bigger isn't necessarily better. just heavier, and given that a fully switched on alternator is exceedingly stiff to turn robs more power for longer due to it taking much longer to charge back up

so yeah landcruiser battery probably bob on right and correctomundo

me i just got sick of paying bosch for a warranty that never got used, so i went for the lowest cost option and discovered much the same service.
if you talk to the geezers in euro car parts the lion batteries do not fair well in modern cars.
they like to be fully charged , like to take a beating when starting and then be fully charged again.
Modern sealed batteries do not like being at all discharged to any great extent, and expect ECU/computer controlled regulator to keep em in tip top condition, trickle charged all the time.

hence 70s battery for 70s motor/alternator/regulator was my choice.

Dave

My McLaren battery has lasted very well. They probably cost more than a new hatchback, but mine was free...

Dave999 wrote: Tue Oct 15, 19 9:22 am
putting a battery in that is hugely over specified might sound good, and it will start the car no probs when extremely flat. the trouble is after that when the alternator comes on. it comes on at full power. and sinks massive amperage into the battery until it is charged...which is fine and dandy if your wires and ammeter are up to it.... things can get a bit hot if not. If you have bypassed the bulkhead connector and ammeter, this is not a problem provided the wire from alternator stud to relay stud and on to battery is nice and fat. otherwise you run your 50+ year old ammeter at 36 amps with the needle wedged against its stop...and they are nearing pensionable age and don't like it.

That’s some good information I didn’t know. Thanks.