Mopar Muscle Association UK

TIB3300 wrote: Fri May 08, 20 6:52 am

Are all starter motors the same, auto/ manual? - Yes

Where to get one of those high torque small starters? - Hausers, Real Steel, even some sellers on FB

Best place for a stroker kit ? - Really depends on what you want to do,what type of engine you want to build,

Best place for a conversion set? - Did you mean Torque Converter

graham fury wrote: Fri May 08, 20 9:23 am you can get a starter from real steel in uxbridge they may do the other parts you need they have quite a lot of stuff on there website

mopar_mark wrote: Fri May 08, 20 9:36 am

TIB3300 wrote: Fri May 08, 20 6:52 am

Are all starter motors the same, auto/ manual? - Yes

Where to get one of those high torque small starters? - Hausers, Real Steel, even some sellers on FB

Best place for a stroker kit ? - Really depends on what you want to do,what type of engine you want to build,

Best place for a conversion set? - Did you mean Torque Converter

Pete wrote: Fri May 08, 20 9:47 am Most Stroker units are based on the 360 so they are externally balanced... lots of research required....

mopar_mark wrote: Fri May 08, 20 9:36 am

TIB3300 wrote: Fri May 08, 20 6:52 am

Are all starter motors the same, auto/ manual? - Yes

Where to get one of those high torque small starters? - Hausers, Real Steel, even some sellers on FB

Best place for a stroker kit ? - Really depends on what you want to do,what type of engine you want to build,

mopar_mark wrote: Sun May 10, 20 7:27 pm Stroking an engine to try & emulate the sound of a big block, is not really a good recipe. You could change the idle characteristics with a Camshaft change, but you will be limited on cam choice by Piston to Valve clearance, this can lead to new cam, new lifters, the list goes on & on.

For noise, maybe a better option for you would be an exhaust cut out system, which you can change engine note(open headers) with a flick of a switch.

Dave999 wrote: Mon May 11, 20 3:27 pm hi torque mini starters

you just need a mopar starter...

they are all much the same and by their nature were MINI and starters and the High torque bit is a function of the windings and the reduction gear.
they have the nose that fits into the bellhousing as standard i.e what brand x calls a heavy duty starter

so this one would do

starter for dodge dakota 1995 with 318 5.2 litre engine gets you a starter that fits just about any muscle car era mopar

if you are californian
Attention California Customers - WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

so don't lick the grease or drop it on your family allowance

its bolt holes are in the right place
its pinion is about 35 mm which sits it in the right place
it has a support snout that fits into the register in the bell housing

it just isn't painted bright red with lightning bolts and fancy chrome bits and it doesn't have multifit snout

this starter is converted to high torque by reseallers when they install a different OEM (Denso) armature and coils. or they use they long case motor unit on a mopar snout, from a diesel application.

if you run into difficulty with pinion size WOSP engineering in the UK can help but you won't with this on a 318 or indeed anything upto a 440 in a mopar with a US mopar bell and US mopar flywheel or torque converter ring gear.

this starter doesn't work with aussie 146 tooth ring gear applications using aussie converter flywheel and bell, where the bellhousing is in essence too small for the flywheel/converter/ring gear. they need a 25 mm pinion... or 27 (don't ask)....

and any mopar v8 sounds good, with the right pipe, due to the firing order and the positioning of the crank journals
Dave

mopar_mark wrote: Mon May 18, 20 7:02 pm If you do go the Cam replacement route, you should seriously consider getting a new Timing chain set. Some of the 318’s had an aluminium gear with plastic style teeth which can strip or should I say mine stripped on my ol 318 Challenger