Mopar Muscle Association UK

Well it feels like a life time since I did anything car related but after a teaspoon of motivation I need to pick up where I left off last summer

I did an engine swap (spring last year) in the Dart which resulted in almost a second off my 2019 pb at Santapod when we had an opportunity to run which sounds great but not really as good as expected. Yes it can be a million and one things but one thing stands out a mile at the moment.

The tired old fenderwells have seen better days. When I took them out last year and removed the wrap it became clear why they had been wrapped. To say Stevie Wonder had welded them with his feet is an understatement and they are beaten and squashed in places that are nowhere near any obstructions, almost crushed at one point

I feel that I need to help the engine breathe out now but I'm not sure where to start. Repair what I have is one reluctant option which will never be right because there are areas that haven't been welded in the middle of spaghetti junction and I cant get to them.

I don't "need" fenderwells and research just throws up so many pros and cons, gets my head spinning faster than a set of slicks in a burnout.

So I thought I'd ask on the forum as other platforms have too many experts. Does anybody have anything suitable or can suggest what and where to get something.

So a 440 in a 68 A-Body Dart (gonna be tight but the inner wings are already cut) with Stage 6 heads. The existing manifolds actually dropped in no problem, far easier than the previous 440 with stock heads in fact.

If you zoom in on the pictures you can see what I'm up against with the restricted flow of the battered manifolds I currently have.

Any help much appreciated, Thanks.

Previous engine in the car, new one out of the car. (Still haven't managed to sort out image rotation, sorry )

Hi James.

I really comes down to personal choice: Fenderfwells, or Underfloor.

Fenderwells score in terms of Spark Plug access and clearance around Torsion bars.

Underfloor allow bigger diameter front wheels (which can help chassis tuning and launch), but restrict Spark Plug access, and I am sure you will end up having to clearance around Torsion bars and Steering linkages.

If you want to get creative, I have a new set of Mild Steel Headers for a Big Block, but I think they were intended for a Truck. They will be cheap!
If you think you can cut and shut them and make them work, you are welcome to take a look.

Doug's Headers have a good reputation.

The only real alternative is to bit the bullet and get a set of TTI underfloor Headers.
They Flow very well, will fit better than most, cost a small fortune.

I hope it all works out for you.

Pete

Put TTIs on, only headers that fit, cost a fortune, but you get what you pay for

Cheers guys, cost to one side (I can dream) I did keep coming round to TTI 440-200 for fit and good flow.

Not sure I could stretch that far in reality as I guess I need to order from the states and add all the other costs. As ever with these motors it's never just the product cost eh?

I'm not looking for the cheapest fix but the less agro from sourcing to fitting is what it's going to take to keep me motivated with this

The dollar rate is good right now, order direct from tti and get them sent to Ron Fenton to ship, very cost effective.

I have got some TTI Headers for a 440 which are not for sale, but you are welcome to borrow them for a mock up if you wish.

I bet you will have to remove the Torsion bars to install them, though..... No "Dinging" though as they are Ceramic coated.

All the best.

Pete

I tried direct from TTI Direct you can only order by phone and I found the shipping cost was ridiculous to Rons place but found their approved suppliers to be a lot easier and cheaper??

Might be cheaper through Mancini Racing then?

If you do buy some, get them in bare steel, check the fit and then drop them off at RFI for aluminium coating. Although it gets grubby it will not go rusty or come off and it’s a hell of a lot cheaper than ceramic..

Thanks for the info chaps and for the offer, Pete. Not sure sure I'd want to risk any damage to someone else's pricey coated headers even if it is just for mocking up with no bashing about.

I had thought as Blue says that anything I go for would be plain finish to start with, get any adjustments done before coating

Demon James wrote: Sun Mar 14, 21 4:14 pm
I had thought as Blue says that anything I go for would be plain finish to start with, get any adjustments done before coating

I am doing exactly that with a set of new mild Steel Big Block Chubby Headers at the moment...