Mopar Muscle Association UK

Planning on building (not me) a 440 for the street. I won’t be stroking it and I would like to use the original rocker assembly if possible.

I want to start gathering parts over the next year….intake, heads, etc.

What do you gurus recommend?

Keep it pretty stock, not excessive compression, good quality timing chain, Pistons are personal choice and ££££, prices vary wildly.

File fit rings, 1/2" Pick up modification, deeper sump, windage tray.

Aluminium intake - probably dual plane (I love single plane ones!), and NOT an Edelbrock carb!!!!

Cam is the most important choice, the old school .484's etc are really out of date, much better options these days even for street usage....

Rabbit hole: Alloy heads - good for weight off the nose, etc.... it depends on budget and what you are trying to achieve..... most of it is willy-waving unless you are racing....

Speed pro L2355F six pack pistons for decent compression, hydraulic cam from Hughes, billet timing set (440 source is good) 6quart oil pan if it hasn’t got one already. Use the iron heads unless they need work in which case ally heads might make sense. Something like an Edelbrock Torker intake and a 750 Holley. That’s a cost effective build likely to yield 375 to 400 HP with plenty of torque.

There are many combinations of parts that will get you where you want to be. If you are not doing this yourself, speak to an engine builder like Dave Billadeaux, he's built loads and usually has pistons, rings, bearings and performance stuff in stock, if not he get's stuff in regularly.
Not wanting to rain on the parade but the caveat is you may find stuff you can't use in the rebuild when stripped down, ie crank issues, it would be then just as easy to go to a stroker rotating assembly. Similar story if the heads have any problems.
Anyway, if everything was OK, I'd use the stock heads worked / ported for bigger valves (2.14, 1.81), new stock H/D rocker assemblies ( if you can still get 'em, I hear they are discontinued ). But, you may get lucky and be able to pick up a set of heads already done if anyone is swapping out to aluminium heads.
For sure you'll be leaving stuff on the table v's an after market aluminium head but the benefits over stock (bar weight) aren't there until you get to the more expensive and higher up the "foodchain" heads. The cheaper heads like Stealth, Procomp, Speedmaster etc aren't worth that much more than ported stock h/p wise.
Again I digress, Icon pistons seem to be a good price. A decent cam or whole valvetrain kit, for example https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy- ... 3-440.html . Stock 6 quart pan ( or an aftermarket pan with matching pickup, usually these need the upgrade to 1/2" not a big job when it's all apart ) and stock oil pump, the stock oil system is fine up to 6000rpm which is the operating range of the above cam. A good Ign system, Performer RPM intake ( best all-rounder on Engine masters R/B intake shootout ) Check hood clearance though, Holley 750 D/P (brawler), upgraded fuel pump, 1 7/8 headers, dual 2 1/2" ex system minimum.
Don't forget the rest of the drivetrain. To make the best of the engine you'll likely need a decent 10" converter (along with a known good or freshened g/box), set of 3.55 gears, limited slip and some tallish tyres. It'd be a nice jump in and drive anywhere combo and make enough power to easily get you into trouble .
It won't be cheap, parts, import duties have gone up and availability is an issue with some stuff, but you will have saved a bit using / upgrading the stock heads and rocker assembly.
HTH's

A clear objective of what you want to achieve and how much you want to spend is Key. My recipe is bang for the buck and about as cheap as you can do it. Dave’s is heading into 500hp territory at probably double the money. As I say totally depends on what it is you’re after.